por-15 and rust

Discussion in 'Technical' started by mashori, Mar 10, 2009.

  1. mashori

    mashori Member

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    I'm gonna insulate my floors with dynamat or something similar. I have a little rust on the floors, nothing major, mostly surface. I need a little advice on using POR-15. It is the product that I bought so it's the one that I'm gonna use. But after I did the search on it here some people had problems with it. What is the best way to apply it. Can I use it on parts where there is no rust?
     
  2. don graham

    don graham MCG State Rep

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  3. mashori

    mashori Member

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    I found another post where someone said they did the same thing and the whole sheet peeled off. I just want to know how to prevent that. I think that person maybe overdid it with the rust cleaning.
     
  4. mashori

    mashori Member

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    is rust bullet any better?
     
  5. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    YES!!!


    ...:yup:...
     
  6. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    here is my "Rust Bullit" test subject. i was just cleaning my brush when i finished a repair. (not that you can save the brush).
    as you can see it was done in March '06.
    there was no prep done before painting...(didn't even remove the bird do).
    one of my neighbors was looking at it a while back and pulled out his pocket knife and couldn't scrape it off.
    i have pics. of the repair i was doing that i will put in another thread...

    ...Frank...:thumbs2:
     
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2010
  7. Dave B

    Dave B I like Mavericks!

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    All I can say, is if you use POR15, don't get it on you!! It'll take weeks for it to come off! I've used it, along with their Metal Ready, and Marine Clean, as they suggested, and it's been fine for me.
     
  8. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    that makes it a...3 step prosess...
    i used...Rust Bullit...straight from the can...1 step...:yup:
    my Por 15 that peeled off was done by someone working at a Mustang restoration shop...the steps he took, i don't know.

    ...:huh:...
     
  9. brainsboy

    brainsboy Member

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    Years ago we used a product called black magic, which was basically the same thing as por-15. The product worked great but the problems we experienced was that because it dried to such a hard finished product it was difficult to get paint to stick to it. Paint in areas not 100% preped correctly would cause the paint to chip and peel.

    Ben
     
  10. rthomas771

    rthomas771 Member

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    I did my floor/trunk with 2 coats of Rust Bullet then 2 coats of bed liner. When closing the door it sound like I had carpet on the floor...no ringing tin can sound. After the carpet, pieces of pad and seats were install it sound like a Lincoln when the door was shut. I did plan to install Peal & Seal but the weather was to cold at the time. Using the foil backed jute sound deadener/insulation behind the rear seat and inner quarter helped a lot. See http://1bad6t.com/Maverick/maverick_5.html
     
  11. Bubba Bob

    Bubba Bob Member

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    Go with Rust Bullet and Peal n Seal.

    I helped a freind install some "FatMat" sound deadner yesturday. The FatMat was nearly the exact same thing as Peal n Seal, but 3+ times the cost. DynoMat is the same , just even more expensive.
     
  12. mashori

    mashori Member

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    thanks guys, this is very helpful. Rust Bullet ordered! I got the POR-15 for free from someone and I have used it on the trunk of a different 71 mav but I sold that one so don't know how it held up.
     
  13. nickmav70

    nickmav70 Nick Maverick

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    Hey i know what that sounds like :rofl2:
     
  14. Rando76

    Rando76 Member

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    How did I know that was coming? :rofl: So Frank, you sealed in bird doo and it still sticks? There must be tensile stength in this product.
     
  15. rthomas771

    rthomas771 Member

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    Nick- I was referring to the 60's-70's Lincoln (a real Lincoln) the kind they made limousines out of. :D
     

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