What is the correct way to lube a ball joint or tie rod end?

I hate how in the newer cars have no grease nipples. Even on 80s Japanese cars, I used to have to drill and tap for grease nipples

 

If you pump grease till it comes out, then you've pumped too much and ruptured the boot. It only needs enough to slightly swell the boot. If the boot is swollen at oil change time, leave it be. U joints can be pumped till the grease comes out, the rubber gasket will allow the excess out without damaging the gasket. Not so for ball joints and tie rod ends.

 

There is your answer. Thats how I was also taught. If its full leave it alone.

 

But if no old grease ever comes out of the boot how can the new grease get into the joint? Might sound dumb but seems like for new grease to enter old grease has to leave lol
clint

 

The gasket is for dirt not to create friction. Water will not enter due to grease being there and water does not dillute grease.

 

The whole point to adding grease untill the old one comes out is that old grease dries and doesn't serve its purpose which is to lube.

 

I have always pumped till I see some grease come out. The tie rod ends don't have sealed boots so it should come out. You will also see a small escape hole in the bj boots. Those I point inwards when I install them so I can see when the grease comes out and I can wipe it if necessary. The idea of pumping till you see the grease coming out helps verify that grease infact was injected. The filling also forces (or should) older worn grease and contaminants out. I have even seen water come out of a joint during filling quite often. Personaly I would just fill it till I see it coming out and then wipe it if your concerned about getting grease on other things.

 

If the boot is in good condition and not dry rotted or ruptured the old grease won't dry out. The ball joints on my 89 Ranger are 20 years old now and still like new. They have no grease fittings. So if your theory is correct, they'd be long since worn out.

 

Not all tie rod ends have the boots you're talking about. Some do have sealed boots. As for the escape hole in ball joint boots, I've never noticed em.

 

Mine are new. This is on my 04 Dodge 1500. I had a worn tie rod end and upper ball, so I figured if I am changing 2 of 6, I may as well do them all. The boot on one lower actually just fell off while I was getting ready to install it, and dealer told me it is ok, when installed it will push it up and it will do what it needs to. It does have a groove on one side that Gene is talking about, and an arrow that says "INBOARD".

I think the main reason my stock ones failed is that they had no grease zert/zerk. I am going to keep these suckers lubed, because it was an expensive job and not too fun.

The old ones were clearly getting dry. You could pretty much just dangle them and wiggle them around, and there was a little "crunchiness" to the failed ones.

 

Wow - that truck doesn't seem old enough to need that kind of work done. But without grease zerks, I guess anythings possible. I had a similar problem on my '95 Thunderbird. I had to replace a few things at about 90K in 2003 or so, because there were no grease zerks.

 

The only sealed boots I have ever seen were on imports, which we don't care for around here j/k . The slot in the bj boot i'm referring to is on the edge or lip and faces the mating surface of the control arm. Usualy squared. I wanta say I seen them on uppers and lowers...not all brands or models tho.

 

He's getting me worried. I now have 150k on mine. So far all seems tight...seems.

 

and some people think we should keep chrysler around. if the do i hope quality issues like that are addressed.

 

and dont let your friends grease it... my friend put 7 pumps on one side1111