Ok, so I've talked to the guy who has the car, and we both agreed week after next (Jun 22-26) is ideal for both of us. I'm getting the vacation time approved today, wife is cool with it, so it's on! And that means if I want to be fully ready, I need to make sure I've ordered everything I can't get locally. Heater core for sure. I will take a chance that the vacuum lines are ok because it was all working when the car was parked. If I get a surprise there I will patch whatever I have to and get some new ones ordered to put in later. Will try to secure a vacuum switch from Pull-A-Part when I get there. I'll plan on replacing the foam with something off-the-shelf if it needs it. I suppose I also need to decide on a refrigerant and get that ordered soon too. Since I don't know whether the car was properly (or at all) converted to R134 (right oil and o-rings) I think I'd better go with a refrigerant that's compatible with both mineral and synthetic oils. That would be "Enviro-Safe" or Freeze12 I think. Does anybody have a pic of the HVAC box outside of the car? Anything funny about the way it mounts, or screws/bolts that will be impossible to see until I break them, that kind of thing?
i don't have a pic. but they are there.... i would suggest that you pull the A/C stuff out first, then if something goes wrong, you will still have yours complete... ...:Handshake...
Windshield Removal If you decide to remove the windshield, CUT the weatherstrip from the outside with a utility knife and free the windshield. If you try to take the windshield out with the weatherstrip in place you might break it. Want to know how I know? Oh well, the old one was delaminating.
If the AC system on the donor car currently works with no leaks, is there any real need to replace the expansion valve other than peace of mind? How about the receiver/dryer? I will replace every o-ring I can find, definitely the heater core, and I may go looking for a bigger condenser just as an upgrade...
I would order a heater box seal kit to install while it is out of the car. You can get them from a Mustang supply house.
I wouldn't bother with the expansion valve, but the receiver/drier is a good thing, if only because the dessicant inside there is in a bag of some kind and can get loose over time and get sucked through the system. Preventing that is worth the $30 or so it would cost to replace it. I'd upgrade to what's called a parallel flow condenser, which is supposed to be more efficient than the serpentine type that originally came in our cars. Here's a link to one I bought that fits nicely: http://www.nostalgicairparts.com/ai...8-superflow-r-134a-aluminum-condenser-338.php You'll have to make brackets for it, but it's not a big deal. I *think* the fittings are the same as the stock condenser too, although not completely sure...
For $30 I would replace it it a second, but I'm not seeing that price anywhere. It's $85 on Autozone.com. Have you seen it for $30 somewhere? For the condenser, I think I will hit the Pull-A-Part down in Jackson before I order one. I need to go there anyway since they have a Comet. I've got my fingers crossed that it has AC. Comets seem to usually have a better chance of being be well-optioned, so if I'm lucky that's where I will score some some spare parts like the vacuum switch.
Weird. I'm seeing between $45 and $65 on roackauto.com. Looking up '73 302 Maverick, factory air. That's still better than $85, but if I can get it for the prices you listed I'll certainly order it. How are you looking it up?
Guess they must be different then. Did not know that. Hope this isn't one of those mid-year changes that happened in '73.
I have swapped a bunch of dashes and always use the original vin in the replacement dash. If you use regular rivets and cut the end off once it's flattened, you can get the stud out so the rivet looks hollow like the original. Once you put a coat of paint on it, no one will ever notice. Even if they do, it will still match the door data plate. I have been pulled over more times than I can remember and have never had a cop look at my vin #. As long as your tags and registration are good, why would they?
I am showing the same part number for both '71 and '73 from the place where I order stuff, but the price is a little over $51: http://www.caawparts.com I still think it's worth replacing, but that's me.
(get a comp vacuum canister off ebay, work far better than the stock one) What is a "Comp" vacuum canister?
Been looking for a better quality replacement myself. This is a Comp vacuum cannister: http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp+Cams/249/5200/10002/-1
