Primers

Discussion in 'Cosmetic' started by blugene, Jul 9, 2009.

  1. blugene

    blugene Senior member Supporting Member

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    I have been looking for paints and primers. I see that there are pleanty of threads on paints, but not much mentioned about the primer used.
    I am almost to the point of installing my windshield and headliner. I would like to at least primer around the edges, should I? Timing isn't right for paint so I hope I can at least primer. Even if some do not agree with that idea, what primer should I use? I am thinking I will end up doing base coat then clear. What is wet on wet?
    http://www.tcpglobal.com/ItemDetail.aspx?ItemNo=KUS%20KIT-KUP405-GL This sounds good...?
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2009
  2. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    ...DP90...epoxy primer...:thumbs2:

    this fender was wet sanded with a #3000 grit sanding pad.:yup:

    ...GFF...


    [​IMG]
     
  3. mavgrab302

    mavgrab302 MCCI Florida State Rep

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    DP90 is a great choice for a whole body spray, but if your wanting to just do around your front and back glass. just use an epoxy primer in a spray can i like the eastwood one you break the seal on the bottom of the can shake it up and spray (real epoxy primer in a can) but spray a body color after even if its dupli color don't leave it in primer...
     
  4. brainsboy

    brainsboy Member

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    Most of your epoxy primers are going to be fairly decent such as dupont, ppg, omni, nasson. Im not sold on the spray cans, epoxy primers use a catalyst to harden which means they cant be put into cans.

    The differences in most primers is going to be with the urethan primers. The main differences is not so much quality as how fast they dry, or how well it sands without gumming up the sandpaper.

    The differences I have seen with epoxy primers, is just that some epoxy primers do not like to be sprayed over other materials. For example, I have had problems with Omni epoxies drying over USB bondo.
     
  5. blugene

    blugene Senior member Supporting Member

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    Gumming up sounds like it would not be good. I don't want to spend my time buying and changing out sand paper, unless it is the better choice of primers, otherwise I would prefer not to use that kind.
    What are your thoughts of the kind in the link? Should I spray can the very edges with a close color after the primer?
     
  6. brainsboy

    brainsboy Member

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    I have never used that primer before so I cant comment, I dont know anything about it. I would assume its going to be ok, if you run into problems with gummy, then try letting the primer sit for an extra day. I have no proof but I have always assmued that primers are made this way for marketing, body shops will pay more for primers that cure faster and sand faster because they are in a hurry to get cars in and out.

    As for the edges they are not going to be a problem to leave them in primer. You can always remove the chrome trim before you paint the car and get the paint far enough back so primer wont show.
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2009
  7. blugene

    blugene Senior member Supporting Member

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    The idea is to have the glass in (front and rear) and leave the chrome off. It's ALL off now and I only want to put it on once.
    I think I will give the supplier a call since they do provide a # for questioning.
     
  8. mavgrab302

    mavgrab302 MCCI Florida State Rep

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    The eastwood epoxy primer has the hardner in a little can on the bottom of the primer can you twist the two together and the primer and harder mix together, then you have a real epoxy primer in a spray can. Works Great.....
     
  9. Joe Dirt

    Joe Dirt BBF life

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    ive been using urethane primers
     
  10. mashori

    mashori Member

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    I know that a lot of the projects I've followed on different websites or on those TV shows are done the way other people described. The bare metal is painted with the eastwood epoxy primer. From what I have researched, you don't want the epoxy primer sitting on the bare metal for too long. But I've read that it can sit for almost a year without running into trouble. But the sooner you can coat it with a top coat or filler primer the better.
     
  11. Dave B

    Dave B I like Mavericks!

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    DP 90 or 60 is my first choice!
     
  12. rayzorsharp

    rayzorsharp I "AM" a Maverick!

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    Epoxy primers are definitely the way to go. I would not even let an epoxy primer go unpainted for a long period of time unless I planned on stripping it all off and redoing it before topcoating. Primer is not designed to hold up to ultra violet rays of the sun and will break down allowing moisture to absorb in to the metal. You may not know it till a few months after you paint your car and small pimples start showing up under your paint. Sand it down and you find small specks of surface rust. No need in taking a chance on that happening. If you're not going to paint it for a long period of time, go ahead and topcoat the jamb area and clearcoat it. From my experience it needs to be sealed.
     
  13. blugene

    blugene Senior member Supporting Member

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    Even if it sits in a garage full time?
     
  14. rayzorsharp

    rayzorsharp I "AM" a Maverick!

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    If it's in the garage full time you should be okay. The weather is what causes the problem.
     
  15. yellow75

    yellow75 MCCI Oregon State Rep Supporting Member

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    Excuse my ignorance here but if you are down to bare metal dont you want to use an etching primer first?
     

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