Question for speed junkies

Well how much does it cost for all around?

 

I found the intake. It is a Weiand 8011 Dual Plane. It spent about 1-2K miles on my car before I swapped to a single plane after the rebuild in the early 90's. ( Damn........has it really been that long) I tried to put pics in but could not. PM me and I will send you pics. This thing with a 600 vac. sec. made loads of power from a stock combo. ( No, I am not claiming world record times------but you will DEFINATLY notice the difference.) If you get the intake from me or not, If you go 4BBL with the intake/carb. you will have oficially gotten the HOT ROD bug.

 

Disc brakes: $200 to $500 range

 

Electronic ignition

 

Pertronix = $90
Definitely a nice upgrade and well worth the money

 

After reading this entire thread and the good suggestions, I would make upgrades in this order:
1. Disc Brakes
2. Electronic ignition upgrade - Petronix or DuraSpark
3. 4-bbl intake and carb
4. Dual exhaust (no bigger than 2.5")
5. Headers - This will require converting to a floor shifter.

I would figure on $1,000 for items 1-3 by the time you get everything rebuilt and ready for safe road use.

 

If the car stops ok now, I would do the disc brakes later. There are plenty of guys that drag race with the drums.


1. Electronic ignition upgrade - Petronix or DuraSpark
2. 4-bbl intake and carb
3. Dual exhaust (no bigger than 2.5")
4. Heads
5. Cam
6. Headers
7. New bushings on front end. New balljoints. New tie rod ends. new U joints. Driveshaft safety loop.

 

why a floor shifter??? i thought hooker 6901s were suppost to work without any modifications???

 

All great suggestions, However, I would do the headers and the duel exhaust at the same time. That way your only paying someone to bend/install pipe once.....not twice. JMHO.

 

I have side pipes.. Its already been done i just need to hook up some headers. I will get disc brakes soon. Everytime i get money i go and buy another maverick instead of putting it into my car

 

all you really need for disc brakes are the spindles, caliper brackets, and backing plates, i was able to get new calipers for 20 bucks each no core, and the rest of the stuff for under a hundred dollars.

 

Ok this is the intake I have......I need a new computer.

 

The engine,or the car?If you want the car to be quicker(stoplight drags or real,legal drags)then here's my 2 cents in order;
1.gear swap-3.55s are a good compramise between town/some highway driving.
2.recurve your distributor.Points are ok if they're set properly,the recurve springs are cheap/easy to do.If you hate points,then the Pertronix is an easy conversion.
3.stall converter-a 2500-2800 will do wonders w/the 3.55 gears.Get a shift kit/trans cooler for your C4 while it's out.
4.intake/carb-sounds like you already got a setup in your sights
5.if there's not enough left for disc brakes,just make sure your drums are working properly.Have the drums turned if need be and put in all new hardware(springs & stuff) when you do the shoes.
These things(other than the brakes)will help optimize the power you already have,the next things I would do would be cam swap,along with some better heads or at least port out the exhaust side of your old heads.A cam will help out,but w/stock 302 heads you'll not really realize the cams full potential until you pay attention to the heads.
HAVE FUN!

 

c'mon guys. Only one person said heads. Think about it...it is Air In, Air Out, and heads allow all that to happen. Yes, cam makes it happen, but heads ALLOW it to happen (and headers).

My suggestion is to figure out where you are going with this project, get the heads now with the $1k. Then get the carb, intake, and cam to match.

It doesn't hurt to have heads that outflow everything else. It will still get the fuel and air it needs and will run. Then when you swap the other stuff out, it will RUN!!!

 

Rear gears are cool too, with a spool or posi, but worthless if you don't have a little torque pushing at them...