I am ready to begin sanding... YEAAA!!! I would like for you experts to advise me on the gritts to use. What do I start with and what do I end up with. I am hoping not to have to take it down to metal also, but if I have to I guess I will. I will be looking at purchasing sanders like orbitals and such, so tips on which are good and bad are also needed. Rest assured I will be asking more questions as we go along.
I use 60 grit to strip it down to pretty much metal, then 80 grit for a finish sand. Epoxy primer over that.
if you are doing stripping there is great stuff by 3M which will attach to a grinder and it's made out of a sort of rubber/plastic and doesn't fill up like sand paper and doesn't gum up if the paint is really bad. It takes the paint down to metal. This has worked very well for me and even though it does heat the metal up it doesn't warp it. From all my research (sadly no experience) I know you need around 150-200 grit in order to have adhesion by most anything you gonna spray on there.
You sure? I use 80 to sand/grind on gates. I do paint over the sanding, but it isn't a car... Perhaps your saying for the etching primer coat?
80 for finish sand is pretty rough. Would take a lot of primer to fill that in. It would be ok if you planning on a thin bondo coat but even then you'd be safe with 200. I would say wait for some of the experts on here who do this every day. But I have sanded some of my sheetmetal with 150 and it was already pretty rough but easy filled it with spray paint (don't know how well automotive paint would fill 150 thought)
This is my guess and what I probobly would have done... Sand down (to metal if necessary) 100 Spray etching primer then sand with around 150, seal Sand next with 180, primer Sand with 200 then wet sand with about 250, paint Sand off all paint due to runs, redo
I usually do 80 grit for repairs and roughing the surface followed by a 2k hi build block it with 80 on a long board,reprime,and do the final blocking for paint with 320-400 wet paper
You can even shave you with a piece of iron without a scratch very broad because the risks the fund covers the time after the painting is simple and more tiring, more worth it.
yeps I'm sure. You want to get to the metal and prime with dp-90 or the like. 80 grit is what they recommend for the dp-90 and then you spray a high build primer over that and use 150-200 for the sanding on it to get it flat. 320-400 wet for the final sand in prep for the color coat. The 80 grit gives a good tooth for the epoxy based primers to adhere to the metal. Where you get rid of the sanding marks is in the high build and successive layers of primer.
Thanks for the replys guys. I was so busy today I didn't have time to go look for anything. I did look at phones tho, gotta decide. Tomorrow is kinda busy also. Looks like Thursday or Friday are open for working on the grill and shoping for equipment and stuff. I need to install inline water seperator and some sort of drier for my air compressor/plumbing. Here's a question. Can I or should I split my air line coming out of my compressor making one side dry and one side oiled? I remember a long time ago at Pep Boys, they had inline oilers for the air tools.
i work in ameros pinstripe and paint (namedrop)some times and this is what amero has me do if stipped use scotchbright red disc to remove paint, all bondo work is done shaping it as close as you can saves time later 80 grit the entire surface, ecth prime and then primer coat and lay it on try not to spray all in coat but three coats = heavy let this set a day or two block and flat board with 100 trying to get the surface flat if you see metal stop you need more primer fill once you sand out you will need to reprime and almost always it does need it.next it is block sanded with 320 if you see metal stop sanding it should be flat by now and you should not need third coat, the foam boards are good but the wood blok is used also to achive the smoothess finish you can get you can always sand more but once you spray it is what it is,we sand all the way to paint booth it seems but the effect should be no shiney,wash car getting as much dust out of door jams hood edges every where it is get it offwhen you spray you dont need dust theres plently of that any way, use prep sol to clean entire surface remember to wipe it off after app as you put on take off no drying of prep sol on surface after it is sprayed rest it for a few days and if need 1500 wet sand and buff better known as cut and polish theres a lot to it but any thing i can do for ya let me know.when i painted mine i worked on it every day doing something it took me nine weeks good luck
the entire surface is coated with a charcol type dust(guide coat in spray cans) to high light low areas and high spots on final primer when i say no shiny i mean the parts you dont prime such as a place that requires no fill just scuff with 320 no shiney spots must appear dull and and not miss any where you will find spots after you wash the dust does good camo any thing to help....j ...o i for got if you can afford one,get one of the dust less d.a's it has a bag to catch the dust the paper last longer and it can also be used to wet sand these are the bomb the paper disc as holes in it cuts great!
