Es no mas stock rockers!! I have aftermarket comp cam rockers I guess I'd be more excited if I could make them work.
It's not the rockers that make em adjustable, but the rocker studs. Starting in 68 or 69 Ford switched to a "positive stop stud" on the small block heads. These have the threaded portion of the stud smaller than the shank, preventing the nut from going further down than what's needed. So they're basically, bolt em down and forget em. Unless your heads have been converted to screw in studs, this is what you now have.
one tip to help adjusting them easier is to get a spare valve cover and cut the top center section out so you can run the engine without as much mess and dial them in. it takes me hours cause i stink at adjusting them (tempted to put the stockers back on and be done.....)
Quick update/question. Car revs up then dies with the electric choke plugged in to power. When unplugged, and keeping the choke closed manually, the car runs and idles with no apparent problems, indefinitely. Does this equal a big ol' vacuum leak?
I am probably wrong but if you hook to those terminals I think it takes power away from the coil. Needing to run full choke to keep it running sounds like a full blown intake or vacuum leak to me. clint
that is not a good place for the choke wire to come from. it shouldnt have a full voltage after your done cranking. that post is intended to send full battery voltage to the coil during cranking. then when the starter solinoid is released it will have the voltage that is going to the coil after the resistor wire.
I agree it's not the right place to get power for the choke but It also depends on what carb and choke he is running as to if it needs full 12v or not. I think a Ford choke needs 7 or so volts but a Holley or Edelrbock choke needs 12v. Might be totally wrong but that is the way I understand it clint
I've always wondered about the so called "taking voltage from the coil". Every VW I have ever owned [several], the choke and the idle shutoff solenoid were hooked up to the coil hot wire from the factory. And VW's don't use a resisitor wire, either. I have ran them hooked up and disconected and never felt a bit of difference. Point life was normal too, you didn't burn the points by having too much voltage. So, somebody please explain to me why an American car is any different? As long as the wire is large enough to carry the load, there shouldn't be a voltage drop, and if there was, it should prolong the points life, right? Or am I looking at this totally wrong?
