Going to FINALLY get the car on the dyno. What do I need to take with me?

How about 372.5hp @ 7k

 

Now that's funny.

 

Yeah it was.

 

I don't know how accurate my Desktop Dyno is, but it says my engine is putting out 411 HP at 6000 and 363 tq at 5500. That would be at the flywheel, so if you lose 25% parasitic loss through drivetrain, then I wouldn't be surprised to hit right around 300 on the chassis dyno.

IF the Desktop Dyno is accurate. I put a lot of time and research into the numbers, including flow numberson my heads, cam numbers, etc to get these readings.

 

If you have Desktop Dyno Basic (which I have), then you need to subtract 7 to 10 percent from your numbers. I've input engines that I had the actual engine dyno numbers for and was always at least 7% off. Depending on how detailed you enter the info (i.e., head flow numbers) you could be off 10%. Your HP number should be more like 370 and your torque number should be more like 327 - both at the flywheel. This is from my experience and is my opinion.

 

This is a pretty long thread considering we still dont have any dyno numbers. Should change the subject to speculation.

Get that car over there and drive the crap out of it already.

 

My guess is 285... what's the prize?

 

the winner gets his car NOT!!!

just do a burnout in front of his shop to show how to put the hp to the ground

--------JUST DO IT -----------

 

Gonna do it. But I won't drive a spooled and primered car in the rain. If the weather holds I will shoot for friday again

 

Where's your sense of adventure?

 

I don't blame you... to much time into the car to chance wrecking it on a trip that far

 

Well, I may have to put it off a little longer. I was tuning the carb today, and got it pretty much dialed in, and while testing it, I nailed the throttle a little hard and a damaging chain of events quickly happened.

1. Rear end sunk deep enough to take a good sized chunk out of my back tire and the rear end slid around a bit.

2. Battery came loose and negative came off. (not mounted, but just sitting in trunk, my stupid fault, and going to cost me a bit)

3. Tachometer immediately died.

4. A/F gauge died a couple seconds later.

So I don't know what else is damaged. It was a 3 minute ride to get home running on just the alternator. So there is no telling what all I will find dead in the next few hours.

And without A/F gauge, dyno is pretty much worthless.

I guess I can still take it and just see what the HP/Tq numbers are, but I cannot see paying $100 for that when I can use that time to do some tuning.

 

"And without A/F gauge, dyno is pretty much worthless."

...his dyno should give you this info...

 

the dyno should have an air fuel gage and a tach. if your car still runs then the msd should still be good. the stereo is about the only thing left that could be fried from this, so you could goto the dyno. usually they have the ablity to log the a/f ratio in relation to the rpm.

 

No stereo, so I am cool there.

I guess you guys are right. He said he was going to just need to wire into my o2 sensor. Not that he needed me to have the gauge working.