Taking my time, and trying to do this correctly. Things I have found out are stock rod fits same as stock m/c. Front reservoir is on the front, not the back like stock m/c. My stock replacement m/c has two different sized outlet holes, and it appears that the front hole is metric? Maybe? We couldn't find a match at NAPA. But the two fittings on the Wilwood match up to the larger one on the stock line, and a new line that has the same sized fittings on both ends, the smaller one that fits the proportion block (I think that is what that thing is--where the lines go immedately after leaving the m/c and where the steel lines to all the wheels start). I think that was 3/16" on both ends. I will post the correct sizes when I get back with the new lines. Since the holes are swapped, I am going to buy new lines and bend them to fit, so I don't have such a mess of twists and curves. The stock lines are like 18 inches long and there is only 6" between the m/c outlets and the prop valve. So 2 8" lines or similar should do the trick. A question for you guys. Which way should the WILWOOD on the cap face? To be read from the fender or from the engine bay? And of course, a picture of progress...
Did the push rod lock in place in the Wilwood M/C like it does in the stock M/C?...are they the same lenght?...turn the cap around to read from the fender side.
Did not lock into the hole. Thanks for feedback on the WILWOOD direction. I went and bought 2 3/16" X 8" lines, and 2 3/16" X 12" lines, and a flaring tool. I was going to recycle that larger fitting onto one of the 8" lines. Then got to thinking that the Wilwood came with a 2-3/16" adapters, so I can just swap that out and not have to do the flare job...
OK, done. Ended up doing all new lines at the prop valve, line lock, and m/c. MUCH less clutter. Before and after...
It is Wilwood part number 260-8555-P (at least that is what the number was in JEGS). P is just the polished model for an extra $30. It is 1" bore. I test drove it and it is VERY tight. As tight as a disk/drum setup can be. And since I was not sure how it would stop without the proportioning valve (unless that is what that item is at the bottom of the 3rd picture where the 2 lines go down under the car), I did a hard mash stop at about 20 mph to make sure it stopped straight and didn't try to let the rear end come around and meet me up front. It worked A-OK.
Very nice! What is that cylindrical thing on the firewall above the distribution block? (EDIT) Oh... It's a line lock. Neat.
I want to caution you about the rod not locking in place, Mine on the old master cylinder wouldn't lock in place. One one occasion when i left the line at the strip it pulled the rod out of the master cylinder. Ever tried to get a brake rod back in doing 100+ mph? It ain't fun, luckily i kept moving the petal and it finally went back in the hole. Now i don't know if yours will come out that far before something catches it but i would find out (and not a 100+ mph). Just a thought you might want to check out.
Actually, I will be making some sort of stop. I just haven't figured out how I am going to do it. But, for what it is worth, the old master cylinder wasn't locking either. The rod has the spring-clip on the end, but it wasn't locking like it was supposed to. It popped right out with minimal pull. Almost freely. While working on this, I noticed just how far the brake pedal can come back, so I will be fabbing up some kind of way to keep it where it belongs. Taking suggestions on a stop, if you have a good idea.
I had that happen in 2008 at the Gathering (mokan) left the line hard and the rod fell out of the mastercylinder talk about pucker factor!!!!(sorry Ijust replaced the clip on mine)
