Searched the board and found lots of tech info. An easy mod for sure that should hold me over till I am ready to redo the entire wiring system. Thanks for the . I am running a standard 4" bs on the fronts. I believe this can only be done if you clearance the wheel lips. Some inner fender work is needed as well to run my 245 tires. See this link for standard maverick tire/wheel fitment ideas. http://www.maverickman.com/TireandWheelSizes.html
Have you thought about posting on Lateral-g.net? Neat site that needs a decent Maverick post. Not very many fords posted at all. regards, Cal
Im a member on both lateral-g.net and protouring.com. Same user name. Both are extremely useful sites with some incredible builds. I keep the build info here where the Mav community can keep up though.
Sweet! Keep the pictures coming!! I was laying in bed last night thinking about a mod motor..since my car is already apart...damn Car Craft!!
There are some fuse blocks out there that are really aimed at the street rod market that look pretty nice... Saw one with 7 relays already built in. If you are adding a lot of electronics and need to change the fuse block anyway, might be a good way to go.
DO IT Dave!!! Might as well join the club. I had the whole extra setup a few months back DOHC engine, cast iron block, Cobra top end, 5speed trans, all the wiring and the computer. Ran perfect. I ended up selling all for $1000.00. Deals are out there. DO IT!
What a mess. I finally got the dash removed and have been exploratory surgery on the cowl. Its not looking good at all. These holes are huge. I originally though cutting the vent louvers off from the top and cleaning /sealing the cowl floor from the top would be an option to hold me over for a few years. But now I am wondering if it will work at all. Here you see the extent of the damage. These are some rather large areas of rust. Can I use a wire mesh to for the floor and then use fiberglass matting and rust bullet to cover it? I would do that to both sides.
Hey Chris, You need to look at the idea of using panel bond adhesive. My driver side panel looked just like yours. I made a replacement panel (bowl shaped). I didn't put any vents back in it. It took a little hammer work till I got it where it was similarly shaped to the bottom of the cowl that's rusted out. I then cut out the bad section, cleaned and ground all of the edges back as far as I could to get bare metal. I massaged my bowl until it fit the bottom of the cowl as close as possible. I cleaned my new sheetmetal piece to the bare metal also. Next I painted the new piece with POR-15 (can use Rust Bullet or anything equivalent) and then let it dry for 24 hours. I also cleaned the inside of the cowl as good as possible since you have such a big hole for access and painted the rest of it with POR-15 (gets a little messy cause you gotta get your hands in there). Use gloves cause that stuff don't come off for a few weeks. I ground off about 1/2" around my new piece and the bottom of the cowl where I wanted to put the adhesive. After everything was cured I simply applied a good thick bead of 3M 3115 Panel Bond Adhesive around the perimeter of my new panel and pushed it in place making sure to see adhesive being forced out all around the edges. I wedged the panel in place and left it to cure for another 24 hours. I came back the next day and water tested it...no leaks!!! I figured id they could glue door skins and quartr panels on with this stuff I could surely glue on such a small panel. This was 6 years ago and I have yet to have any problems out of it.
Did you take out all the spot welds or did you have to take the dash or what im confused about this whole topic.
Hey Ray.... What gauge metal were you working with. Im not body man. Is this metal forming hard to do?