what proportion valve are you using besides a granada one?

Discussion in 'General Maverick/Comet' started by 2 mav man, Mar 12, 2010.

  1. 2 mav man

    2 mav man Member

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    I can't find a granada here anywhere. We have some T-birds and ltd 2's in our salvage yard and other small fords. Thanks.:huh:
     
  2. Mavman72

    Mavman72 Gone backwards but lookin' forward

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    I am useing the stock drum/drum prop valve in my Sprint with disc swap up front...No problems,workes very well.
     
  3. Bob Wiken

    Bob Wiken Chronologically Gifted

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    same with me. works very nicely.
     
  4. 2 mav man

    2 mav man Member

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    Thanks, I'll try and bleed the system out. I have discs up front and drum in rear, but the rear still seem to lock up first with the original prop valve.
     
  5. CaptainComet

    CaptainComet Large Member

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    I am running a Wilwood adjustable prop valve along with the stock all drum "Combination Valve" (it is not just a prop valve like some cars). It works well. I was finding the rear locking up too fast for my taste.

    BTW, where in Fl are you? I am near Clearwater.
     
  6. 2 mav man

    2 mav man Member

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    Thanks, adjustable prop valve may be the way to go. I live in SaintCloud, florida
     
  7. darren

    darren Member

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    Ditto. No issues for me with the drum/drum valve.
     
  8. Grabber71

    Grabber71 Milique Toast

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    X four! No problems whatsoever...
     
  9. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    I am using the stock one from a disk/drum setup, but with a Wilwood m/c swap. no problems. I can stomp the brakes and it stops on a dime, and no skidding, front or back.

    [​IMG]
     
  10. justin has a 74

    justin has a 74 Maverick bandit official

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    scooper, how much did that setup cost ya?
     
  11. CaptainComet

    CaptainComet Large Member

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    2 mav man,

    Did you change out the master cylinder to disc/drum?
     
  12. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    Justin, I threw down 250 for the m/c, and around 50 for the line lock, the lines I bent up myself, and the rest is stock.

    I got tired of replacing my master cylinder with O'Reilly rebuilds and having them perform like crap.
     
  13. bmcdaniel

    bmcdaniel Senile Member

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    Same here.
     
  14. 2 mav man

    2 mav man Member

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    CaptainComet, I have not changed the master out from the drum drum yet. I was going to buy I a new one for a disc drum without power brakes for a 75 or 76 and see how that worked, and hope that stops the rears from locking first. Thanks.
     
  15. CaptainComet

    CaptainComet Large Member

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    If you are running the original MC, you will have weak pressure on the fronts. Disc calipers need a higher line pressure than drum. A proper disc/drum MC will have a smaller bore for the disc section, creating that additional pressure.

    Definitely, change the MC first. I am sure that will make the biggest difference right now.

    I have a non-power later Mav disc/drum MC myself. Available rebuilt from most parts stores. Paid less than $30 for mine, a long time ago. You will need to shorten the rod from the pedal to the MC, or it will sit high. I still need to do that ... drove it for a long time like it is. :rolleyes:

    That Wilwood unit that Scooper posted is pretty, too ... I will bet that it works great.
     

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