wow, so much loneliness, and despair, and great cruelty in those images Wonder if you could manage to salvage any of 'em.. Some of the ones you might be able to mash together, saw some front fenders pretty clean.
WoW!! Those are some awesome pictures! Even 20+ years ago, we didn't see that many in one yard, ever! When you go back, take some more pictures!
I wish I could edit the title so people knew there are pictures in here now. Anyone know if that's possible?
http://picasaweb.google.com/David.Blodgett/June262010SalvageYardPics#5487189056386777538 Did this have orange interior? If so same as my car, and I only know of a couple more like this color trim combo. If you would be willing, I would LOVE some more pics of this car the next time you go back.
dtb147, if you will go to my tech on "Modding Bobcat Tail lights", you will see how they look in black. I bought my set from M.A.V. knowing that they were pitted with the same idea. I sanded them smooth, primed, then shot them with gloss black.
That is a pretty crazy looking yard there. We don't stack cars here unless they are waiting for the crusher (but cars don't sit around for a long time in the bigger yards here ...) Something else to look at are decent small bumpers, valances, frame brackets and related hardware. If you don't need them, eBay them and help fund your car. That is all big stuff, Greyhound bus shipping is your best bet ... frequently half price of UPS, ect. Also, if any of those cars were V8, frame mounts are always sellable. The belly bar is a good grab. Measure your front sway bar ... if there is a bigger one there, grab it. I thought I saw what might be a good Comet grille ... if so, someone will want it.
On the power brake car, definitly get the inside brake pedal. You HAVE to have that to do the power brake swap.
This one did have an orange interior. Although I believe the door panels were black with the wood inserts. I'll see what I can do for pictures. It had the intact glove box tray though. I was hoping to grab a blue glove box tray for my car, but I noticed the dash was different on the cars with the glove box. Does anyone know if you can make them work with the earlier dashes?
Nice write up. It sounds like I should pick up a spare set or two of maverick taillights too for parts. That's one thing they had plenty of.
I didn't get a good look at a lot of the cars, but the main problem is most of them are sitting on the ground with no wheels. In these pictures they look better than they are. Pretty much every fender, quarter, and floor is rusted out. Not many hoods that were salvageable. I was looking at bumpers, but most were mangled or rusted to hell... although there were some good sets of bumper guards but I don't know how many people actually put them on their cars. Only 2 V8 cars there that I found and I think the owner is claiming the V8 swap parts from one for one of the two he drives. I didn't think to check the sway bar diameters. I figured the Addco sets are so cheap it wouldn't really be worth it. Thank you for the reminder about this. I forgot that the pedal was different. I was reading my Chilton's looking for the removal procedure for the booster, but it doesn't have one. Are there any tricks to getting these off the car?
David,I see your from PA. (State College or Pitts.)Where is this yard?I'm from Pa. and have never seen that many Mavs in PA. yard ever! You can PM if you like,Jack
DTB147 wrote: "Thank you for the reminder about this. I forgot that the pedal was different. I was reading my Chilton's looking for the removal procedure for the booster, but it doesn't have one. Are there any tricks to getting these off the car?"[/QUOTE] The booster is held (through) the firewall by four fixed bolts that pass through the brake hangar setup (the metal piece(s) that hold the brake pedal in place). You will need to release the four associated nuts that secure the bolts to the hangar. Also, don't forget that the pushrod for the booster will be attached with a clevis pin to the brake pedal. Once you have removed the four nuts, the pushrod, and of course the master cylinder and/or brake lines, the booster should move forward off the firewall and be good to go. Chris
