Do you know what the torque box is for?, what its function is among the frame members? Making it more rigid could put your life at risk in an accident.
Thanks..... I quess I'm just causing you all kinds of extra work..... I quess I better not put the subframe connectors and roll bar in it then, cause it wouldn't be safe to drive after that.....
Frank, Just finished going through your thread. Fantastic job and great documentation of your progress! I'm sure there's a lot of people on the forum learning some valuable lessons.
Quote: Originally Posted by PaulS Do you know what the torque box is for?, what its function is among the frame members? Making it more rigid could put your life at risk in an accident. I quess I better not put the subframe connectors and roll bar in it then, cause it wouldn't be safe to drive after that..... Frank, The torque box is a "crush zone" that allows the metal to absorb shocks from collisions. The sub-frame and roll bar help stiffen the passenger envelope for safety and stiffen the chassis between the two crush zones for better handling. If you make the "crush zones" more rigid then the steel doesn't absorb the impact of a collision - the people in the car do. I do add strength to the passenger compartment and use sub-frame connectors - they make the passengers and the car safer on the road and in collisions. I was just wondering if you knew that the torque boxes were made to bend and twist to absorb the impact to protect the people in the car.
I dunno Paul .... I would call a torque box an "end-of-crush-zone". A triangular tube from an engineering standpoint should greatly resist any attempt to bend it, in pretty much all planes. My take on them is that they are there to serve as an anchor point for the front subframe to the rockers, resist the twisting forces of the engine, and if the car takes a frontal hit, everything in front of it would be subject to folding, but it really should end at the torque box, protecting the cabin. Not trying to be a smart aleck here ... but, has anyone reading this ever seen a torque box bent in a crash?
Thanks and keep watching..... Thanks, and I do hope some of the info can be helpful to others..... Paul, I was being a bit of a smart ass sith my first answer..... I knew you were going to get into the crush zone thing and I do understand what that is and what is intended for..... I am trying to strenthen the car to reduce flex for the strip..... I don't believe what I am doing is going to affect that a great deal, I say that because if crush zones work properly nothing should collaspe into the passenger compartment and everything I am doing in inside that area..... If it does have an adverse affect on the proper function then so be it, cause that is my choice on my veichle..... I agree..... See my above response.....
Made the new 1/8" thick top plate for the torque box this morning..... It is dirlled inline with the flanges of the front torque box lip and outside frame lip so I can plug weld it where it was originall spot welded, then it will be stitch welded to the outer rocker and 1" x 2" tube I added earlier..... It will also be tucked under the edge of the sheet metal at the top and inside on final installation so it can be welded there also..... Once I had it fitted I painted the inside of the torque box with POR 15..... Tomorrow I should be able to get it welded in..... This pic shows it laying in place.....
man, i really wish i could do work like that. i guess i really have to learn how to weld on my next project...
. outstanding work., wish i had that kind of talent , time and money lol. really enjoyed this project. heck it would take me longer to just take the pics then he has on all the work and pics lol
Being able to weld is very helpful when working on these old cars..... It's really not that hard if you get some decent equipment and practice for a while..... Thanks..... Thanks..... I am really happy so many are enjoying this thread, it keeps me interested in constantly updating it.....
When I wrecked my '74 Grabber, the torque box on the passenger side was pushed up into the toe board, which caused the transmission tunnel to deform, and the rocker panel also creased and bent about half way back. But the torque box itself was intact.
I welded the top plate on the driver side torque box this morning..... I can't start on the pass side yet because I need to get some more spot weld drills, cutting the panels with rust inbetween just torn the one I had leaft up..... So when I am done with this posting I am going to order another set..... Unfortunately they won't be here until the beginning of the week..... So I think I will get started on the drivers side rear floor and frame connector next..... Here is the ds top plate final fitted..... Here it is welded and ground clean..... I also decided to weld the front seam between the top plate and front panel of the torque box.....
I bought a few spot weld cutters from Harbor Freight Tools before I removed my cowl cover. Each one was less than 5 bucks and the little hole saw part of it was reversible. I got through 60% of the cowl before I broke any teeth off the cutter, flipped it around, and still have that cutter. Have 2 spares also