What should my car run. I ran it and im not impressed at all with it. Let me see what your guys think. I have a 308 13.3:1 compression 185 AFR headss with a .649 solid roller cam with a 248in 256ex duration @50. Victor jr intake with a 750 holly duble pumper. C4 trans and 4.30's in the rear with a 28 tall tire. car also have a 300 shot sitting on top have not race on the juice yet. Car weights about 3000 with me in it What do you think I should run on all motor then what should I run on the juice...
i have a wrong converter in it i have a tci super street fighter 3500 stall best time on car is 12.05 all motor at 116mph I think this car should be a 10.9 easy with the right converter best 60ft ever is a 1.916
Just a couple of questions about the car, I assume this is a street car that is occassionally raced at the strip? What kind of suspension do you have in the rear, CalTracs or? When you go to the track do you disconnect your front sway bar? I assume you are using some type of DOT drag radial, what is the width and how much air do you run. What kind of headers do you have and do you uncork them at the strip? What RPM do you lauch at with your 3500 converter? Do you have a transbrake, linelock, or just use your brake? What RPM are you going through the traps at? What kind of gas do you use/what timing/do you check the plugs often? Have you had someone watch to see if you are spining the tires when you launch? Just looking for more information as to why the car seems slow to you.
no I don't drive it on the street casue of the spool i use 112 VP fuel stock supension have the leaf springs redone I use MT slicks 10.5x28 I just use the brakes off the line launch at 2700rpms timming is at 36 when it seems to run its best. I go threw the traps a 6000rpms. tires have very little spin i was told but not much to make a major difference. I shift my car at 7200 rpms. I run open long tube headers
OK, it would be interesting to see some pictures of your car as you launch. Timing sounds good, what do the plugs look like after you have made a run or two? Certainly leaving the line at 2700 isn't doing the converter justice, have you tried bringing the rpm up to 3000 or over, I know it can be a little dicey with just the foot brake, but I have got my Maverick up to around 3500 without having the rear tires start to creep although my converter is 4500. What rpm are you going through the lights at? What is your reaction time? The 60' times are about a half second off of what they should be and if you reaction time is .5.........................not saying it is, but the 60' times are taking a lot away from your trap ET. What are your 330' and 660' times like?
One last thing, could you explain how you stage the car. Not critisizing you, but if you can go through how you stage the car from the waterbox to the first light, then the second light might give us some information as to the 60' times. Again, no disrespect meant, how long have you been racing this car? Thanks John
this is the second year with this car i have been racing with a almost stock motor with just cam and intake and stock converter i went 12.96@ 109mph. after i do my burnout i bring the first yellow lights on then bring the rpms up I can bring the rpms up any higher then 2700 with out spinning. then creap in the second yellow light just flickering the second satgeing bulbs on plugs have been a little gray but I up the jetting to 79 all around... my reaction light are like .011 330 is 5.196 1/8 is 7.830 with a 93.57mph 1000ft is 10.107 threw the traps i end up at 6000 rpms my cam is to 3500 to 7200 rpms
but i have been racing cars since i was 17 now i am 21 I use to race with a 71 ford pinto wagon, 78 pinto wagon 89 honda civic and my grandmoms accent
i see several problems. 1st. carb is too big. its killing your low rpm power. a 650 will feed a 302 up to 7500 rpm. 2nd. as you know your stall speed it too low. 3rd. when are you checking the spark plugs? if its after you drive back to the pits then your only checking how the was idleing through the pits. you need to check them right after the run. i have found geting a wideband o2 sensor is the best thing to tune with. its amazing how easy it makes it.
First, I'll just start by saying that what Bryant said may be true. If you have access to a 650 I'd try that before I'd try anything.................to get a comparison. You already know about the stall so I won't go there. Second, I am not sure you have enough gear to really take advantage of the motor you have. The small cubic inch with that cam/intake really needs to be going through the traps at 7000rpm and you just can't do it with 4.30's no matter how hard you launch. You probably need at least 4.89's with your current tire size.....................assuming you can get a 4500/5000 stall converter. I would think you should be in the 118/124mph range at the end of the 1/4 and you aren't going to get there only going 6000rpm especially with a 308 motor. After some thought.............sorry.............. when you get to be my age things take longer to sink in............................what you need to do is go to with gears before you do anything else. I still think that with your current tire diameter, and going through the lights at 7000rpm is where your cam would still be pulling, going through at 6000rpm you are hardly coming up on the cam and this could be part of the issue with your plugs being a grey color.......................you will need at least 4.89's. I think this would improve your 60'/330'/660' times. I think your 60' times will improve if you push the rpm up against the converter you now have, how about installing a linelock???????? And what Bryant said makes sense, installing a Lambda meter would give you better indication where the air/fuel is all of the time. Just a couple of suggestions........................IMHO
