Made and welded the repair panel in the driver side front floor, then I wire brushed the surface rusted areas on the part of the floor pan..... Also made the panel for the pass side front floor, just needs some minor trimming and it will be ready to weld in..... Here is the driver side panel made and tacked in place..... Here it is welded and cleaned up..... This is after wire brushing the surface rust..... and this is the pass side panel sitting in place.....
Have you ever used the split mono leaf with the cal-tracs on the street?I want to use these on mine but have never used a mono leaf with an aluminum front bushing on the street.
No I haven't used them yet, but I do have them for my current build..... I have used solid bushings in the past with no problems other then a little harsher ride.....
Welded the patch in the front floor..... Made a patch for the pass side rear between the connector and rocker, then welded it in..... Made the same patch for the pass side and got it tacked in place.....
I think it's 16 gauge..... It's just pieces I cut out of the full length Mustang replacements I bought.....
Welded the rear outer driver side patch in..... Then worked on fitting the pass side inner repair panel, what a pita..... It now fits almost like I want it and it only took 2 hours to get there..... Should only take about another 20-30 minutes to get it where I can weld it in..... Here's the driver side outer welded in..... and here's the pass side inner panel.....
I have to ask...are you coating the bottoms of all your patch work before welding it all in? I realize that some of it may be accessable from the bottom, but it also looks like some may not be. Just curious what you are doing as a preventative measure in those situations? Remember that bare metal will start to form rust almost immediately if left alone. I also only handle bare metal while wearing latex gloves. The oils and sweat from our hands will make those spots start to flash rust very quickly. Just a thought.
I painted the inside of the torque box completely and the bottom of the top plate with POR15 before putting it on..... The only other place that I can't get to is approx 1/2" x 4" of the front floor pan repair panels at the inside, where the overlap the front subframe..... I do have tight access to those 2 places though which I can get to with a long stiff bristle brush.... Everything else I have complete access to from the bottom, trust me I took access for coating into consideration when I layed everything out.....
Finished fitting and welded the inner rear pass side repair panel, it came out pretty good..... Then I started fitting the inner rear driver side repair panel..... Here is the pass side fitted and tacked in place..... after welding and clean up..... and here is as far as I got on the driver side.....
Awesome.......... Are you coming to the silver springs show in Jan. ? Im still hoping to have my grabber there this year if my budget holds up.....
I have no plans to go to Silver Springs..... I see don't how I could possible get the car done in time at the rate I'm going..... Progress has really slowed down since I started working the second job 3 weeks ago..... I am knda cought between a rock and a hard place, I need to work for extra money to help with the car but I also need the time to work on the car?????
My new rear wheels and tires made it on tuesday, on thursday I found the time to go over and mount/balance them..... Got the driver side inner rear panel fitted and welded in this morning..... After that I tried the new wheels/tires on the rear to see how they fit..... They are too close to the outside but fit exactly like i was hoping they would..... They are 1" from hitting the leaf springs which will allow me to shorten the 9" housing I have enough that the axle someone cut too short will work out perfect..... Once I put the rear in that's 1.5" shorter they will fit perfectly.....