. that is the main question , how fast and what kind of raceing..heads up, grudge , bracket etc. all depends . also if you stick with stock heads that victor will slow you down. you do need aftermarket heads if your serious about raceing it. good luck with your build
I think you need to make up your mind, and if the stroker is what you want then do that. I don't know what kinda parts you have in that 306, but if it is basically a stock level rebuild, I would just sell it and plan that stroker out from the ground up. Or, drop the 306 in the car as is and proceed with the stroker planning and parts purchase. ... Now about that budget question???
well to answer the how deep are your pockets question. my pockets arent deep like others but i do know how to save. i also dont really mind spending money. hell in the last 2 years ive spent about $10000 to get my 5000 dodge ram into the 12's on a stock block and that with no stall and stock 3.92 gears. so to answer the question im ok with spending the money just dont like spending it twice. but on a side note ive looked at the Procomp heads a coupe of times and for some reason i cant seem to pull the trigger on them. ive never really heard anything spectacular about the company. are they good heads? i was kinda raised that cheap almost never means good no matter what the advertisement says. and from looking at both new and used prices they seem to be cheaper than alot of the others out there.
Yah gets what yah pays for... Buy a set AFR 185s' Good head for the stock engine(with the proper cam intake etc...) and big enough to support a 500 HP stroker when your ready.
AFR 185s work with a high rev 302 but if you only want to buy heads once those will not be the best heads for a high rev 347. For the 347 you will want to go with bigger heads and larger chambers. The problem is that the bigger heads on a 302 will not work well cold or at low rpm. A race only engine should be at operating temp before the first run so that may not be much of a problem for you. AFR heads consistantly give more power on SBF engines than any other type of head on all the dyno tests I have seen.
alrighty then guess that helped me make up my mind. so problem 1 solved get the 205 AFR heads. now the next question so i can figure out springs and rods what would be a good cam for such an engine. not really familiar with ford cams.
Paul is right^,I have been going through alot research myself and I found some good sites to take a look at. You can type in "sbf dyno proven combos" and start reading. Afr also gives you all the componants that they used and show you their findings. Any where from 400hp and up. I'm planning on running afr 165 w/1.9-1.6 valves with 9.67 compression. Good luck and keep us posted on what you find and come up with.
thats the plan but the other part of it is making sure i dont get laughed at in the process. but as a side note i see your in richardson. im right down the road maybe i can see the car sometime.
Now your on the right track if you plan on building a stroker. Cam... Call the experts at one of the cam manufactures and answer all the questions they have. They can either recommend a custom grind or one right off the shelf. Go roller and you will never look back at flat tappet again. Solid is the best for racing only. If this is totally race and no spray then use a high compression piston, good ones. Now for the bottom end, DON”T cut any corners here!! Build this as strong as your pocket will allow. ARP ALL THE WAY! Buy the best H beam rods you can afford and if any way possible a aftermarket block, at least get a stud girdle and windage tray for your stock block. Once above 6,200 ford cranks will start to walk a little inside a stock block unless you get it good and tight with all the main cap, 4 bolt mains are standard on all aftermarket racing block. Do this right the first time and save a lot of time and money down the road. We built a 347 years ago at the speed shop for this guy who put down 2,500 and then never came back for the engine. He did his homework and it was right, this little 347 was like 545 horse or so on the dyno, Look and see if it’s still on the site here. I posted what it was made of and the dyno sheet but that had to be 5 years ago, maybe a search will still turn it up. Good luck and as always just my .02 Bossmav
Since this is a TRACK ONLY car you will have to decide how fast you want to zip that engine. Keep in mind (since you only want to buy parts once) that above 6500 will be hard on a 347 but a breaze for your 302. Not that spinning a 347 to 6500 is difficult - it isn't but the engine's life will be shorter when turning that rpm than it would be for your 302. The faster you turn an engine - the more cam you need to run - the less low end you have - the shorter the engine stays alive. I would suggest 6000 - 6200 rpm for the 347 if you want to measure your engine life in years and if you intend to rebuild it every season go to coser to 7000 - 7200 rpm. Pick a cam that peaks about 10% below your peak rpm and run it to 10% beyond peak power throughthe traps. THAT means matching your rear gears and tire size to get there in the quarter mile.
With a aftermarket block I don't think I would agree with your statement of how long a motor will last. He is planning on build a race engine, correct. If one wants to play then one should understand that one must pay. Drag racing a stock 302 block and expecting it to hold up at 7,100 with or without a stroker kit is just fooling yourself. Something at some point will give up when you are turning that high an RPM, that why we have the beloved off season to re-coop and rebuild. If you want to go fast, then go big. It's just a fact, no replacement for displacement. I don't make the rules I just play by them.
well said im actually looking at maybe next year doing a dart block punched out and stroked to a 363.
