should be a great street beast.... but that cam will hold that engine back from it's full potential.. looks great tho
well, i chose this cam for the engine to be still streetable. let's see how it behaves on the dyno while i nearly froze to death in the garage yesterday wiring the engine harness - garage isn't heated on weekends - i was sent some more pictures of the engine. intake and heads are now port matched:
I just went through this whole thread and loved it! Keep up the great work! I will never have the patience that it would take to finish a project like this.
Those chambers should be polished if you want to keep carbon deposits and the edges should be broken and smoothed to keep detonation and preignition from happening.
paul, thanks for the information. i spoke to my engine builder, but was aware of this and just had sent me the pictures before he was completely finished. i installed the radio headunit today, i chose a kenwood model: that's how it looks installed. not too out pf place, as it has a retro style to it with the two knobs. i still have to fix some electrical issues, though. starter relay is engaging fine, interior and rear lights and markers are working well, so is the heater and the wiper. the turn signal switch is not behaving as it should. if i connect it, rear passenger brake light will come on, turn signal will only work on that side. driver side is not responding at all, just as the brake lights. i will have to look into this. funny story: when connecting the battery, i heard a strange noise coming from the dash - very unpleasant. i assumed something was badly wired and disconnected every plug i could find - nothing. turned out it was the key warning buzzer which behaved just as it should
Good to see progress! As far as the turn signal problem ... I would check all the grounds first. Bad grounding makes all kind of wierd stuff happen.
Acid etched , or Acid cleaning as in 'Echant' Would be the correct terminology. To pickle or stain would be used for more smaller scale hobbies I believe- and more or less , less than sophisticated tasks, and simpleton speak...or common folk lore myths of improper use of words etc. LOL
Removing paint is not the same as acid etching. Paint cleaners are not strong enough to etch the metal they are designed to soften the paint so it can be removed more easily. Acid etching (pickling) is done after the paint is removed to remove any oxydation from the metal and clean it so paint will adhere to it.
a couple of updates: self-made trunk divider board amp and trunk mat installed headliner in place, i had a professional do it for me: dash nearly finished roof rail trim (i know of the discussion whether gt's had it or not, but i like it!) new sticker from kevin marti horn via relay relays for the headlights more to come
Would the plug in the photo be a Deutsch plug? I used a lot of these German made products while building utility bucket trucks years ago
not necessarily - it's an 'AMP Superseal' plug: http://www.tycoelectronics.com/catalog/cinf/en/c/10876/956
Thanks for the link, Thomas. I'll be giving them a call when I start wiring my car I worked for a company that rebuilt EMD locomotives and we used a lot of AMP products at that time.
Making great progress Thomas. As for the roof rail trim, it does look good. My 71 GT has and I doubt it has ever been changed from factory as the car only has ~45K miles on it. Keep up the good work this is inspirational. - Matt