I use the qurterhorse for all of my cars and once I get everything dialed in where I want it, I burn the tune to a $60.00 chip that I can leave in the car. Iv also set up tunes for our enduro car and burn it to a chip. That was the main reason for going with the quarterhorse and binary editor.
Wow... I don't know what I am looking at there. J3, D2, R7, all greek to me. Not a novice friendly site. I don't know which parts I can use, and which parts can be moved from car to car... The way I read it, the Quarterhorse has to be mated to one vehicle???? I am looking for something I can plug into a 92 Stang one minute, then move to a 94 Stang the next, without digging out the ECM each time. I want something as portable as my laptop...
J2 is the USB adaper to burn the chips. Quarterhorse is the hardware that plugs into the back of the EEC to load tunes onto and data log. Also you can load different tunes wile your driving which is nice. Once you write a tune you like just use the J2 to burn it onto a chip, remove the quarterhorse and install the chip. Cool thing is the J2 adapter can also read and write to SCT chips if you have any laying around. Binary editor is free to use and download but you have to register it for $60.00 to write a tune to a chip or the quarterhorse. You can write a tune to as many chips you want and you can use the quarterhorse in any car you want.
Yep like Clint stated this type of setup is probably better off being used with a quarterhorse setup. The reason I would suggest Megasquirt in this situation is to "learn" on though. Megasquirt really makes you learn how the system works because you are designing the system. I really like the DIY systems, for helping someone learn. And READ< READ< READ!!! After conquered this the sky is the limit with other tunning hardware, and before you know it you can be like Clint and tuning cars left and right. A good megasquirt site for some info, and building kits http://www.diyautotune.com/ I refuse to tune others cars just cause I remember what it was like my first go around, built a nice turbo motor, thought I knew what I was doing tuning and ended up spending more time changing motors than tuning. LOL Always remember take it slow, and know WHAT and WHY you are changing things. You can break things faster than you think
What is the best option to just go in and turn off factory functions, such as EGR, AIR system, and limiters? Without changing tune? The way I read the QH is that you have to open the ECM and install it. That means you need one for every car, or at very least have to install it into the ECM each time you use it. Seems to me that the QH could be installed in a plastic housing with a wire coming in from the laptop and a wire going out to a pigtail you previously installed in the ECM where the QH mounts (J3 terminal I believe). Make sense? Install a cable that extends the J3 into a permanent location on your car, and install one in each car you have. Then carry the QH from car to car with the laptop... Is there an adaptor to do this?
You can buy a side saddle adapter for $10.00 so that you dont have to install the quarterhorse in the EEC. The only reason you have to open it is because the quarterhorse is to big to fit in the hole on the side of the EEC. before I bought the side saddle adapter I just trimmed the hole bigger on the side of the EEC with snips.
I used 3 different harnesses for mine. Ford was pretty consistent on the key wire colors for most components on the engine for a few years anyway(90's-around 03-04) just plugged in the sensors and pulled the wires while the engine was on the stand. back then there weren't as many affordable options. Also, the OBDII ECT, ACT, and some others are smaller and have the same voltage range for a cleaner install, just check the sites to verify
I understand the car intake but what are the issues with running the truck accessory drive? I haven't tried yet but the set up on the Bronco I bought looks like it should clear anything under the hood that can't be moved.
It's just bigger and bulkier, the accessories are spaced furthur away from the engine because the engine bay in a truck is bigger. The Mark 7 has a two piece ac/ps bracket with a support brace as opposed to the multi-piece mustang and t-bird parts and the car alt/air pump bracket I believe is the same on the mark, mustang and bird. The trucks also use a 3 bolt side mount alternator (not a problem just info) and the infamous fx-15 ac compressor which isn't really known for reliability. the mustang, mark and t-bird use a Nippendenso compressor (bigger on the mark7) which is a very reliable unit. All of this is preference, but you might want to be consistent in the source of the accessories and associated brackets.(don't use a truck alt bracket with car ps/ac arrangement. I don't think they line up quite right). The car setup also allows for the elimination of the smog pump w/o any special pulleys or tensioner mods just using a shorter belt and modifying the routing slightly. the belt I used is from a 95 explorer 4.0l and fits perfect with plenty of tensioner swing left(for stretch allowance)
if you use MN12 or SN95 accessory brackets it moves the accessories down and has a provision to mount the coil. 89-93 Cougar-TBird and 94-95 mustang.
'91 Continental Donor? According to one source, the '88-'92 Lincoln Continentals have the 225HP 5.0 same as Mustang. I'm finding lots more of those listed with low miles, unmolested, and affordable. So, those would have the A9P computer, right? Any pros/cons of using the Mark VII as a donor for engine, AOD, computer, and (maybe) harnessses? Is anyone using Doug Thorley shorties with an AOD? I know my exhaust pipes might have to be adjusted but hope the DTs would still be usable with the AOD. The driver's side of the C4 bell was trimmed for the exhaust pipe.
