My 71 Maverick Grabber Build.....

Discussion in 'Maverick/Comet Projects' started by franktf, Jun 6, 2010.

  1. mav1970

    mav1970 Bob Hatcher

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    Another thing I found very handy was different sizes of wire wheels that fit in drill chucks. You can't get to every square inch with the 3M wheel.
     
  2. franktf

    franktf Member

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    Thanks you..... I use paint stripper, wire wheels and 3M roloc sanding and scotchbrite disc's on mine..... It's a rather time consuming process, I probably should have just had it media blasted for the overall time savings..... :hmmm: Oh well that parts pretty much done now.....
     
  3. franktf

    franktf Member

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    Seam sealed the underside this morning then got the car off the rotissorie and back on jack stands temporarly.....

    [​IMG]


    Next I made the crossbars for the rolling cart I am putting it on.....

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Recrdholdr

    Recrdholdr National Record Holder

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    I want a 70-73 Maverick
    Whats the running total so far on Cost?
     
  5. franktf

    franktf Member

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    I don't even want to know..... :cry:
     
  6. Recrdholdr

    Recrdholdr National Record Holder

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    It's probably better that way. Hell I know those Rollock disc's for the die grinder aren't cheap.
     
  7. franktf

    franktf Member

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    Finished the cart to roll the car around on this morning, then cleaned up a little..... I also removed the ugly ass strutrod crossmember from the front of the car..... I am going to make an 1.75" tube crossmember to replace it so I have a nice solid jacking point in the front of the car.....

    Here is the car on the rolling cart.....

    [​IMG]


    and here is where the strutrod crossmember use to be.....

    [​IMG]
     
  8. Dave B

    Dave B I like Mavericks!

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  9. mav1970

    mav1970 Bob Hatcher

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    Very nice idea. Now that would free up my garage and let me do work outside in the nice weather- - - -now where did I put that tubing :huh:

    Here's something I made to replace that ugly crossmember
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2012
  10. franktf

    franktf Member

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    Thanks.....


    Yeah, it's going to make it alot easier to work around..... That tube looks very similar to what I want to do.....
     
  11. franktf

    franktf Member

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    This morning I got the shock towers cut back, they are now even with the inside of the frame rails..... I think I am going to trim a little more off them but I want to fit the motor first with the towers open for easier access for making the mounts and headers, then I will do a final trim on them and weld in new panels..... I also finished tearing the carb apart and got it in some carb clean to soak.....

    Here's the what the towers look like now.....

    [​IMG]
     
  12. Recrdholdr

    Recrdholdr National Record Holder

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    Hell just leave them open whats alittle road dirt. You won't drive it in the rain anyway right LOL.
     
  13. franktf

    franktf Member

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    Anybody got a stick of dynamite so I can fix this thing..... I tried to bolt the rack&pinion in so I can fit the motor and the dust boots on the rack rub on the k-member, not by a little either..... To top it off the driver side hits worse then the pass side, I found the driver side rack mount is pointed up about 3 degrees hight then the pass side mount..... It also looked to me like the rack should have been mounted a little lower for better geometry, after doing some searching on the net I found there are a couple different generations of these k-members that had different rack mounting positions..... A couple pic's I found show the rack mounted even with the bottom of the crossbar of the k-member, this was on the newer style k-member like the one I have..... On mine the rack is mounted even with the top of the crossbar, if mine was mounted at the bottom of the bar like the others I have seen the geometry would look better and I would not have any clearance issues with the boots..... So next thing is to change rack mounts around.....

    This problem made test fit the struts and control arms to see if there were any other problems, and of course the were..... It looks like the lower control arms are too long(the track width is too wide and even with the camber adjustments all the way out I would still have 4-5 degrees of negative camber)..... If the control arms were 1.625" shorter the track width would be correct and the camber would be right at 0 in the middle of the adjustment like it should be..... I am going to call AJE and see what they say but I think I have some control arms that are too long(from what I have found searching around all the k-members are the same but some applications have longer control arms then others, mabye I have some Mustang control arms or something)..... So I may also end up modifying some control arms too.....

    And of course the rack&pinion inner tie rods appear to be too long.....
    What the hell I might as well modify that too.....

    All and all today sucked because I did get anything done other then figuring out what was F%@!*D up on my front suspension.....

    Remember just because it's supposed to fit doesn't mean it will, atleast without modification.....
    Oh happy day.....
     
  14. chirt

    chirt Carlos Hirt

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    Oh man that S%$k$!
     
  15. franktf

    franktf Member

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    Yes sir it does.....
     

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