explorer 8.8 rear end bracket welding install pictures

serious props to my friend Jaime for the badass weld work.

This is actually going into a 66 mustang, but the procedures to go into a maverick are exactly the same, as I'll be doing another for a maverick too...in fact, I "believe" all the welding measurements may be the same too.

I've finally gotten around to getting the 8.8 welded up..It's a 31 spline trak lok 373 geared disk brake rear from a 96 explorer.

I had previously cut off the old leaf spring perches...they were in the wrong spot for a 66 mustang.

I used summit racing brand 3" by 2.5" leaf spring perches. I measured the pinion at oem height 5" up...placed the rear in my leaf springs in my car, made sure it was centered by measuring each side from the spring to the backing plate, then put down all my measurements.

I brought it to jaime, set it up on jackstands, rotated to the correct pinion using my angle finder, leveled out the new perches, cleaned the welding area, then zapped it all in placed.

next I got home and installed my lowering springs...grab a trak's....due to the wider rear, I'll be using the explorer shock plates and I'll be using oem sn95 mustang rear shocks which should bolt right up to the explorer plates and the mustang body.

next step will be for me to paint and prep the rear, install it, install the new shocks, put on the wheels and turn the car around in the garage so that I can drop in the engine

For now I plan on using the oem driveshaft which is already shortened 3/4 of an inch for the t5 swap that I did....combined with the rear flange from an old fox mustang driveshaft and the appropriate u joint. In the near future, I'll look for that alum explorer driveshaft, and run that.

btw, We welded up inch or less per side so as to avoid warping of the tubes

What's my end opinion??? I'll have to say this is much, much, MUCH easier than I thought it was going to be. By far the toughest part of the project was cutting off the old brackets. Those puppies were really on there.

the actual welding work took less than an hour, and was effortless to set up. I welded the brackets with the factory pinion angle, as I plan to fine tune it with leaf pinion shims after I get it running.

 

Nice work! I've got a 3.73 trac-lok in my "other" rod (turbo'ed S-10). Even with 325 tires, you can feel them chirp on tight turns. Good time to add the rebuild kit and truck "S" spring...

 

Thanks for sharing the pics

Warping of the tubes has always been the thing holding me back from this project, someone once told me if you do any welding you need to get the rear end straightened out.

And I thought that was expensive.

 

I'VE Been reading up on this for the better part of a year and have yet to find anyone that warped their tubes, or warped them to the point of straightening. Just take your time and weld in small patches

 

Did you cut the one side down to center it up? I thought the Explorer rear was off set?

 

To make it stock width and center the driveshaft flange it will have to have the long side cut down. That's how I done mine

 

IN my case....i'm running 04 mustang bullitt wheels...which would have required 1" spacers on each side...the explorer rear in total is exactly 1" longer on each side, so perfect to run with late mustang wheels.

The off center diff isn't a problem. It's never caused an issue other than bumping the tunnel on either very lowered cars and dips or an extreme dip. If it becomes an issue, I'll clearance the tunnel with a bfh....no reason to even out the rear end imo. I'll probably do the same with my maverick too.

 

Thanks for the Reply, Can I get away with a 110 Welder or will I have to step up to something bigger?

I also want to run Late model wheels and this seems like the best method.

$150 for a 8.8"
Instead of staying with the 8", which would required $300 spacers, $350 Track Lok, $100 set of gears, etc...

 

IT'S really a killer deal...especially considering on top of what you listed, it's 31 spline AND has disc brakes and is about the same strength as a solid 9" rear...the swap is really stupid simple.

I asked him about a 110 welder....he seems kinda scetchy on wanting to say it would work...for this job I'd do a 220 welder...the welding is so simple though, that literally you could bring it into any muffler shop or whatever and guide them through the procedure...it shouldn't even cost much.

 

I just finished this mod without shortening the width of the axle. If you have any questions feel free to ask. As for tires the 05+ offset is still too much, the leaf spring is about 1/2" or less from the tire. I plan on using 04 and down bullits on the car. Only the fronts will need spacers the backs should be spaced perfect. I'm hoping I don't have to hammer the side of the driveline tunnel to clear for the offset pinion. I have a video ... I ramble but I can post it. Your welder took his time right when welding? the heat can warp the axle tubes. My welder chopped up the origin explorer spring perch ears and relocated them for the maverick shocks. The whole system looks great.

 

Thanks
I have 3 shops next to my house that all have 220 welders. So i wont even play around with my 110.

and thanks again for this thread, there have been a couple of these swaps done on here. But no one provided enough pics or info. This will really help out our community.

 

I'll be using the explorer spring perches and late model 99+ rear shocks will be a direct bolt on..my welder is my friend...we were in no hurry...we just did very small patches on each side, and moved to the other side and did another patch to allow the first to cool

 

99 Explorer shocks??

 

Mustang shocks.. I hear they are a direct bolt on with the explorer shock mount plate

 

Measurements

I know that this is a late reply, what are your measurements if you dont mind me asking? I have a 66 coupe too, trying to install my 8.8 rear on my coupe.