I have stock type non-adjustable rocker studs, and I'd like to be able to adjust the lash so I can get rid of some valvetrain noise I'm getting around 2200 RPM. Anyone have experience with this? Is it just a matter of replacing the lock nuts with the right side polylocks? Or add a washer or two and double-nut the studs?
I think the only way to adjust the non adjustable valvetrain is with valve lash caps. http://www.summitracing.com/search/...OMP-Cams-Valve-Lash-Caps/?autoview=SKU&page=2 The noise you would be getting would be the arm is not close enough to the valve. So either the tip of the valve is worn or a pushrod could be worn/too short. I don't think I've ever heard valve noise from a stock head.
Yeah, I'm pretty sure it's valve stem wear. I replaced the stock lash caps because they were quite worn. A couple had even come apart. They were only on the exhaust valves. So it would stand to reason that the intake valves would have some wear too. Also this problem dates back to before the engine swap. Same heads, valves, springs, but everything else is different so I'd think the noise pretty much as to be valve tap. What about something like this? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-4610-16/
Polylocks huh? http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=polylocks&dds=1 I've never seen those used on a non adjustable rocker arm but I guess it would work. Assuming you can get the rocker arm down far enough on the stud to take out the slack in the valvetrain. It's been too long since I've seen a stock cylinder head.
I think that when you torque the rocker arm nut down that it is down as far as it will go on the stud. If it is making valve noise then i would think that the arm is not down low enough. So where would you be putting a washer? or how would a poly lock even help? For a polylock with internal set screw I think you would need tall valve covers. Because the nut and set screw need to be taller than the stud for the set screw to jam against the stud. I really don't see how these work, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-4610-16/ Is it a nut with a shim that will push the rocker arm fulcrum lower? the only way I'm thinking to get the rocker arm lower on the stud would be a washer in between the nut and rocker arm fulcrum. this will push the rocker arm lower and closer to the valve tip.
Maybe the best way to fix this would be with a new pushrod that is longer to take up the slack. You would need to get a pushrod length measuring tool. then measure to see what length pushrods you need and order those in a custom length.
I think that's the idea behind this kit, right. The only reason I'm hesitant to change up the pushrods is, although it helped a lot when I did that in the 302, it didn't completely solve the problem. I think the amount of wear on the valve stems might not be even, especially since I replaced the stock caps on the exhaust valves but the intakes never had them. So my thinking is I'd rather just adjust the lash instead of possibly having to run 2-3 different pushrod sizes.
If thats how that kit works thenI dont see how it will be adjustable. It will just be pushing all the rockers arm down the same amount after you torque the nuts down. You dont want too much pressure on the rocker arms or you will be hanging a valve open. If you think the noise is just from the intake valves then maybe you could try a couple different thickness of lash caps on those until the noise goes away.
You don't torque them down... Looks like Jegs has a better description of the kit: http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp-Cams/249/4610-16/10002/-1?parentProductId=1353771#tabpanel-2
SO the spacer is just to keep the nut up in the threaded area of the stud. And you would adjust as normal. Sounds good. But you are just relying on the self locking nut to hold the adjustment. this would work but reminds me of a Chevy where you would have to priodically adjust again as the nut may move.
Screw-in studs with guide plates is the best way. You will need machine work to shave the boss and buy new rockers and maybe push rods.
