What size sway bars?? If they are close to the same size then theres your problem. Remove the rear sway bar and see how it drives.
Could you post a photo of what your cylinder looks like in relation to the rest of your steering while sitting? Unless you can hang out under the bumper while at speed and take the picture
Your talking about a static camber setting The Shelby drop actually gives your top A-frame a littlle head start in it's job to add camber "gain" as the car calls for it in a corner. I know my original top A-frames pointed down towards the ball joint so, if my car did a dive into a corner, my tops as they went through their arc, would have to get longer (adding positive camber) before they began to get shorter and begin to do their job recovering the camber actually lost in the cornering.
Image You can see the drop down on the p/s ram to clear the headers. Centerlink is parallel to that cross member. Its a good 20-30 degree angle.
I can see the cylinder doing a bit of extra steering for you with that angle. Is it possible to do any fabricating on the drop bracket to lessen the angle? If you were able to maybe lower the entire car in the front that bracket would come down with the frame also. Is the hole on the center link tapered? If it wasn't you might be able to build some sort of drop bracket for the center link to level out the cylinder. I know having that cylinder hanging down that low isn't good either. Just some thoughts
Aaarrghhh rthomas771 - Front Addco part number ACO-835 is larger than stock(7/8") Rear Addco part number ACO-264 is 3/4" mav1970 - I understand the shelby drop, just didn't want to mess with moving the upper arm mount location so I gave it more camber instead. I think the P/S ram having that angle is the root cause of the bump steer. I know there are other guys out there who have installed these Hedman Headers 88306 & Hedman drop bracket. What kind of bump steer problems are they having ?
Might try revising your alignment specs .5 to 1.0* negative camber 3.5-4.0* positive caster .15 to . 25 toe in Should make the world of differance jmho you have a tone of positive camber and way to much toe in no wonder it drives crazy Mine didn't have bump steer with the same headers and a drop bracket fwiw
which way on the specs? So the here are the specs and where I am at: Spec is caster -1/2 +-2, i'm at +1 1/2 Spec is camber 1/4 +-1, i'm at +1/2 -If zoomzoomguy is right it sounds like I have my caster at the wrong end of the range and I should go negative -But mav1970 said "I used to set my own caster/camber when I was building stock cars and you always went positive on the caster." -Joe Dirt is saying I should go to 3.5-4.0 positive caster which is much more positive then what I have and I am inclined to agree So which is it? Should I be more negative or positive on the caster ? :16suspect injectedmav said "My camber is slightly negative at -.5° and I have a slight pull when I hit lines in the pavement or grooves that run in the direction of travel" I have +1/2 camber and i don't get tire screech in the turns. Should I go more negative? :16suspect Yeah mav1970 I see an alignment again in the near future. I just want a concensus from the guys on what they are running so I can make progress and not move backward. Thanks again for all the help. Sean
Your alignment is bad off follow my specs and the car will drive a ton better I do this stuff everyday I work in a shop that deals with solely brakes/suspension and alignments Positive camber along with the toe in you have will make that car "bumpsteer" as the wheels are layed out at the top and pointed in at each other You need NEGATIVE camber and positive caster to make it stable. And you need to reduce your "toe" in
Agreed. Even though I have the slight shift on uneven pavement, it's easily controllable and the combination of negative camber and more than 2° pos caster will go a long way in stabilizing the front end. 5/16" seems like a lot for toe. It's definitely the cheap fix. I settled on 2.5° positive caster because I didn't want to pull the UCA mount to add a shim. Tires are too big to get to 3.5° but that's what I would prefer.
Caster specs were put together for bias ply tires - we run radials they need a more positive caster. So positive caster and zero to negative camber with minimum toe in will make the car very stable and reduce tire wear.
