First the link for the kit http://www.mustangsteve.com/cobrabrakes.html I lucked out and grabbed low milage rotors,calipers,pads, backplates, hoses from a 07 mustang for 14$ plus shipping. If you can grab the calipers and backplates for cheap this is a great mod and probably best bang for the buck.. First remove the old drum setup, so only the spindle remains. You'll need to press out the old drum hub and install explorer 02 rear disc studs into the hub. TRUST me the studs will save time in the long run. With just the spindle on mount up the kit. Its pretty straight forward. Next place the back plate up how you want it.. Mark for holes to be drilled. Before drilling the holes place both plates back to back. This will allow you to drill both sides in one shot. Next if the rotor will not sit flush against the hub you'll need to grind the outer rim down. Trust 4.5 grinder did the task in about 5mins for both sides. (TRY TO KEEP IT EVEN!) You can run new lines or use an adapter line that allows for bubble and inverted ends. I went the long way and install new lines. I ran the hose under/behind the spindle towards the front of the car. Drill/tap and mounted the flex line then looped the brake line in. Looks GREAT!.. The line moves freely through all travel. Thats it for now, I'll have pics of the rotors and pads in place when I have the front tires of again. Suggestion? or Questions?
<.<. >.>. they are Global Wests new, as in just released and not on the website when I ordered 2 weeks ago control arms.. You can see the caster now built into the arm!
Good Morning, it was nice talking to you yesterday...a little fast but nice...:Handshake are the... explorer 02 rear disc studs...metric? looks like a nice mod...great writeup... Frank...:Handshake
part number is mnr-733. The old part number was mnr-73 so make sure you give both 3s. Yes they make lowers. Uppers 600$ lowers 350$ The final result for brakes, just need to find a hub that is offset 1" more then stock so I can ditch the spacers.
ok but i don't believe the hub you seek exists. the hub is designed so that the bearings are on each side of the flange. this way the load is theoretically spread evenly between the bearings. if the flange was moved out 1" it would be over the outer bearing which is the smaller one. i could be very wrong here but this is the theory that i have been lead to believe.
That's what I've read and have been told also. Ideally, the wheel and tire assembly centerline should be near the centerline of the bearings also for the same reason. Scrub radius and the load on the spindle will be compromised if they are off too far. Changing the offset of the wheel is the best option IMHO.
do you think the uppers would be ok for drag race applications? do they offer two different styles? the one i saw on the web site says negative role not for drag use...
I read that too while I was shopping. They aren't the only ones who say that. I suspected it was because the negative roll enhances steering response and might lead to an oversteer condition instead of the factory designed understeer.