dynamat or peel and seal??

I hear that Home Depot version is different than Lowes.

The interior/glass is out of my car and its been 98*-105* here over a month now and my garage or Mav doesn't smell.

 

seemed virtually the same and i didn't have to special order it.

 

I guess Im old school, I used a insulation pad that is cotton padded and aluminum foil on both sides. This Insulator product from Bonded Logic is made from recycled denim and other cotton fibers. I used the double foil sided instead of the single foil sided, it comes both ways. they sell it at Summit and Jc Whitney and i used to sell it and have a few more rolls stashe dup in the attic. I regularly would ship large quantities of it to a Bronco Restoration company, a Thunderbird Restoration Company, and a few other general restoration companies.

http://www.bondedlogic.com/insulator.htm

I only did the floor in my car because at the time I was changing out my seats. That alone made a big difference in exhaust noise, probably because my exhaust dumps right out of the mufflers. Eventually I want to do my trunk with the stuff to. But its to thick to use behind my door panels so Im going to take off my door panels and Peal an Seal over the back of my door panels.

 

The question is, is the effectiveness worth the extra $2 per sq. ft.?

 

I don't know if I picked up the right stuff, The home depot stuff I got is sticky foam about a 1/4" thick with a silver side and it was 12" by 25' roll... sticks like crazy tho, I did the roof so far and after 6 months its still up there....

 

Dynamat is actually the same thickness as peal and seal.. the $2 per sq. ft. is the cost of buying a name brand.

Here is franks original thread comparing peel and seal vs dynamat. Ceck post #38 for the actual recorded thickness of the products

http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=45479&highlight=peel+seal+thickness&page=4

 

If you are looking for sound deadening, do some research and you will find that it is not necessary to cover every square inch. In fact, very little is required to accomplish a lot. You only need to hit the large flat areas. If you tear apart a late-model car, you will see that a few strategically placed pieces does just as good, and perhaps better than wall-papering the whole car. You are basically cancelling out vibrations.

 

i don't think so...

 

...and when it gets wet, it stays wet...

 

The link i provided specifies the anti-fungal treatment that also makes it fire resistant. And it says its designed to breath and release moisture in a timely manner. But ya peel and seal just lets the moisture stay in the carpet. Dosnt matter much to me anyways since I live in arizona, my car hardly gets driven anyways, and I have new weatherstripping.

RobbieG and Gene Fiore can attest to the massive down pour we drove in on our way to our first meet. When we got there my floors where dry as a bone, as they should be. Id be concerned about not letting water in rather than what to do with it once it gets in there.

But besides all that, if I was to do it again Id go with Peel an Seal now that we have all this first hand experience and it would be easier to work with than the thick padding.

 

I guess it's according what website you read.

 

"Id be concerned about not letting water in rather than what to do with it once it gets in there."

...heater core leak...

"But ya peel and seal just lets the moisture stay in the carpet."

...but it's just in the carpet...not in the carpet and a padding.

 

Heater Core? Whats that? I think I remember that leaking 13 years ago. Strangely it hasnt leaked since I removed a couple hoses from the engine bay. Never even gave it a second thought about replacing the heater core. We have enough heat already, I dont need to contribute to global warming.

 

The first time mine leaked ( a couple months ago) it came straight out and got chucked in the dumpster. That'll teach it. This fall when it gets cool again I'll put a mojave heater in.

 

You should have recycled it ... I think I got $12 for the last one I took in. ...