Some of you know Im having close to over heating issues on a freshly rebuilt 302 5.0 motor with everything new. Im curious if it matters how the water hoses are routed? This is from facing the front of the vehicle. Left heater core hose connects to the bottom water pump line. Top water pump line is connected to the thermostat housing. The right heater hose is connected to the intake. Is this correct or does it matter? I flushed the system once and there is still a bunch of brown crap in my radiator. How many times should I flush it to get this crap out? My lower radiator hose doesnt have a spring so I will be buying one shortly. Thermostat is 180 degrees and I have a Champion 3 row radiator.
It doesnt tell me anything besides connect everything back. I need to know which one goes where if it matters. Thanks!
If you are getting rusty water out of the a new aluminum radiator You have a rusty block and or a rust filled heater core. Flush em till you get clear water out of em with no sediment/rust. Its also possible you have an air pocket in the cooling system causing the high heat episodes that needs to be burped out. I would first deal with the rusty water issue and go from there. Top nipple on water pump goes to bypass on T stat housing. Lower nipple goes to lower on heater core. Nipple on intake goes to upper on heater core...Good luck!!!
buy some radiator flush, drain your radiator fill it with freash water, turn your heater on high and run your car until it gets hot, drain and put in fresh antifreeze and water. also check to make sure your thermostat is put in right, it also doesn't hurt to take a water hose and open your petcock and run water through your system until it is clear
I did as you said. Everything seemed fine and it burped the system as well. Now my tempature it at 200 and stays there. More than likely it was all the crud in the engine. Im going to flush it a few more times and see if I can remove alot more of this crap from the engine.:Handshake
Make sure any "radiator flush" you buy is compatable with aluminum. And even then, make sure the stuff is completely fushed out of the system when you're done. You don't want this corrosive stuff eating your aluminum radiator. You mentioned above not having a spring loaded lower hose, that's likely the source of your problem
I got the prestone flush kit, radiator flush and the correct crossover hose. Says its compatible with all metals. I will flush it again this weekend and see what garbage comes out. Im a little frustraded with all the crap that was left in there after getting it back from the machine shop.
Part of the problem is most of the machine shops use a solvent based heated dip tank to clean their blocks/heads. This is fine and it takes allot of garbage out of the engine block, but there is a certain ammount of material that is left in the block. Because the cleaner is non corrosive/semi corrosive it wont break down allot of this material you are seeing , if it was corrosive enough to affect allot of the garbage then it would also be corrosive enough to degrade other components of the block, like cylinder walls ect ect. Im surprised more places dont use ultrasonic tanks yet... But when you assemble the motor and start it then the cylinders heat up. And when the cylinders heat up they expand and contract at a different rate as the scale and rust. This causes the scale and rust to brake loose from their happy home they have lived at for so long and travel through your cooling system plugging it up. So why didnt all this crap travel through the engine before you ask? Most of it was held in the block by all the nasty crap that got washed out when the machine shop solvent dipped it. Unfortunitely some of it might have been stuff that was left in that the machine shop was unable to flush out completely, but some of it is unavoidable with an old block. Also make sure you change your oil after the break in period. After all when that block was in the dip tank all that crap was settling in coolant pasageways and lines and when they did a rinse on the block they might not have been able to get all of the crap out of the oil passageways either so it all runs straight through hopefully to the filter. But you want to get clean oil in as soon as possible.
