GrabberGT Ev. 5

Alright. It tool a 3 day weekend to get done but the rosehill slave is in. Unfortunately, i still have a problem. After bleeding the system and ensuring i have to max fork travel available, i still had to preload the pressure plate a good inch to get the clutch to work. And even now with the clutch engaging just off the floor, i get cruddy shifting. Im afraid to drive it for fear of it just failing to go in gear qhile in traffic. Any ideas. This clutch is a centerforce dual friction and only has 150 miles or so on it. Though 50 of those had the clutch slipping pretty badly.

 

does the slave cylinder travel the maximum lenght that its advertised to?
on mashori's conversion, we got a busing that sits in the hole that is just inside of the clutch fork pivit hole that the cable would sit in. this gives the fork a little more travel.
if you are not geting full travel out of the slave cylinder then a bigger bore master cylinder is nessary or a smaller bore slave cylinder.

 

How does the master cylinder it attach to the pedal? Is there any throw left in the master cylinder before you hit the floor?

Kinda obvious stuff, just throwing out ideas.

 

tha max travel available for a .75 Master and a .875 slave is .918 . With my crude measuring I am getting .872. The kit cam with a ball from a spherical rod end to use for the clutch fork contact.

Per Centerforce all that is needed for clutch release is 3/8 - 7/16 of travel at the throwout bearing. I have 1" of preload at the slave cylinder. I dont know what that equates to at the bearing but its got to be at least 3/8. Not add to that at another inch once I press in the pedal and you get 3/4. Per Centerforce, thats when the pressure plate and the clutch disc start to bind.

I had it at the mechanics today who changed the preload and maxed out the pedal travel. I cant imagine there was much left. It was already at the stops on top and floor at bottom. He also took some of my preload out. He said it is much better but still believes that the slave should be moving more than it is. He compared the fork motion to that of his cable actuated mustang t-5 and his is twice the movement.

 

Also what size of master cylinder are you using?
And is the slave cylinder fully retracted? I had to physically push the inner piston back in the bore even after bleeding and then I was able to adjust the clutch rod correctly, I thought I had the same problem at first..

 

The master is a 3/4 and the slave is 7/8. Just as what is called for in the kit from Rosehill. The only thing I did not change was the Pivot Ball. everything else is new.

Yes I ensured that the slave piston was pushed in all the way when I set the pushrod.

I go pick up the car here soon. I'll report back with the results.

 

What about the fork pivot? Is it adjustable on T5 bell? Could it be adjusted wrong?

Watch the mechanic come back with, "I took out your double plush floor mats and gained you an extra inch of pedal travel. That'll be 50 bucks, please."

 

I have the car back now and it shifts fine. It does not like reverse much or down shifting but might be something that works itself out as the tranny loosens up some. The Mechanic added more throw to the master by adjusting my pushrod and then he removed A LOT of preload from the clutch fork. I dont like having as much pedal as I have now but it will have to do until I have time to play with it. It will involve relocation the pushrod mounting location on the clutch pedal arm to change the ratio. Right now its mounted up really high because the slave McLoed TOB was a 1:1 and therefore I needed the extra leverage. (and yes I do have an offset pushrod to keep the input angle within reason) Now my clutch feels too soft. I'll have to get a longer pushrod and a lower mounting point on the arm to fix it.

This weekend I need to sort out my cooling fan control, set my ride height, and play with my alignment. Then Sunday, I'm going to try the autocross.

 

Msn it's really coming along now

 

Hope you get it all sorted out, I am going to the Goodguys event, and it would be nice to see a Mav at the event. I will be with my buddy in his 68 Ford Country Squire surf/rat wagon.

 

Cool. I'll be out there both Friday and Saturday all day long. I should be easy to find.

I took the car to a guy who is organizing the local autocross this weekend because I had a concern about my car being too loud. There is a 100db limit due to the urban setting of the event. My car measured 99db at a 6 grand drive-by. Whew! I made it.

 

Per the article, it only accepts 74+ Mav and Grenada style brakes. Why? Couldnt a bracket be made fab'd to fit other brakes. Thats the only thing keeping me from getting these.

 

Hey Chris, I have a question about the rear suspension you installed. How much fab work was involved? From what I read it was just some trimming of some of the parts? Is that so? Also, did you find it to be worth it in the end? I am really wanting a 4 link and get rid of the leafs.
Glenn

 

This is from a PM I sent another user wanting to know the same info:

Start with the spring pocket brackets. Everything cues off of that point. They will need to be modified to follow the floor pan so that the spring eye bolt holes line up. Then put your rear end in place on jack stands at ride height. Next mod is the trailing arms. They'll need to be lengthened to center the rear end in the wheel well. Then install your rear end with the torque arm to locate the front cross-member location. You'll now notice if you haven't already, that the front frame rail brackets are completely different than the maverick frame rails. You'll have to fab new ones yourself. Its important to retain the top plates that mount from inside the cab so be sure you keep that in mind when you fab it up. Then you can do the x-brace. Make small cuts.

This is enough to get started. Then its on to the rear cradle and upper c/o mount. Getting it in the right position will take some mods to the bracket, trimming of the factory upper shock cross-member and trimming of the bump stop brackets. you will need custom length sway bar lengths and a taller c/o for the rear.

I thought it was really difficult but then again, Im far from being a fabricator and Im doing all of this in my small 2 car garage on jack stands with basic tools.

I like the style suspension so much more than my leafs. But my leafs were also collapsed from the extremely low ride height. I have no performance driving background so I have no basis for comparison of performance gain. My only hope is that its as good as everyone says it is over on the PT sites.

If I were to do it again, I'd shorten the torque arm so that I could fit an X-pipe in the exhaust and do away with the X-brace. Look into the Torque-Arm from Gateway performance, Griggs Racing and other vendors. Non of them include an X-brace with their package. Therefore the actual gain from the piece is questionable and just adds weight. Jason Childress from GPS was kind enough to bring that to my attention.

In hind-site, I really think for the amnt of work I put into this kit to make it fit, I could have just bought the materials and come up with something just as good for the same amnt or less effort and cost less. But I also learned a lot in this process.

 

Thanks for all the info. That gives me something to think about.