Hello: First I´m gonna say Thanks for read my post. I bought a used Edelbrock set (Intake manifold Edelbrock performer #2121, and carburator 600 cfm #1406) I was very happy with my stock 302(daily driver),HEI distributor, 14" air filter. My car was running very nice with the stock manifold and 2bb carburator, but I wanted something more and bought the Edelbrock set. The problem: I can´t do that it works nice. I moved the mixture screws, the time ignition but the Mav makes a lot of black smoke, poor gas mileage and I can´t feel any difference (It feels slow) What I can do? I´m a noob and have a basic knowledge. I read that change the rods and jets is the solution but I don´t know what to buy (part number) and don´t what to spend more money. Please help me. If you can say me exactly what to do, I´ll be very grateful. I´m very disappointed and sad. And my 14" filter doesn´t fit.....
I had to use a spacer to clear my air cleaner. Black smoke means it's running rich. I never mess with E-carbs , but many guys on here do.
is the choke open or closed. that is the flap over the top of the carb that opens as the car warms up. its controlled by the black thing on the passenger side of the carb. there should be a power wire going to that black canister. is that wired up correctly. its definitely out of tune. first you need to set your timing. do you have a timing light? set it to 34 degrees with the engine at 3000 rpm. also make sure you dont have any vacuum leaks. get a vacuum test gauge. now you can set the idle mixture. hook the vacuum gauge to the manifold vacuum port on the front of the carb. now make small adjustments to the the idle mixture screws. you want to get the highest vacuum reading possible. both screws should be approximately the same amount of turns out. start with them 1.5 turns out from all the way in and go from there. get all this sorted and let us know how its going. we can tell you how to tune the rest of the carb after get these basics done.
Guess I should start out with what is the history of the carb? Did you buy it off of ebay or did you buy it local? Next question is what is the altitude you are located at? If you bought something that was dialed in at sea level and you live higher up in elevation like I do then you will have to jet the carburetor down because the air density is less at higher altitude, this will cause the carburetor(any carburetor) to run rich. This is very important thing to consider because the higher the elevation the smaller the jet look on page 14 of the owners manual to find the jetting charts.. If you dont have one you can download the manual here http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/carbs_acc/pdf/carb_owners_manual.pdf Now to quote from edelbrock on the altitude (use the rule of: “2% leaner per 1500 feet” and the Calibration Reference Chart for your model carburetor.)... and yes all carburetors are altitude sensitive, you have to do this to holley carburetors too. I am mentioning altitude because what you are going through sounds exactly like what I have to go through every time I buy a carburetor and I live in a high altitude area. Make sure you read the instruction manual, there is also a trouble shooting section in there too. Oh and there is a little plastic spacer ring that you get for low profile air cleaners to fit on your carburetor.
call edelbrock tech line and tell them what you have as far as the engine, is it a stock 302 with the stock cam ect ect. then they will want to know which carb and intake you have and is it an auto trans or man. when they have the info they can tell you what number rods and springs you will need,i bought mine off ebay for 8 bucks and they are very very easy to change out. you still need to set the choke and timing, and you should use a fuel pressure regulator, these carbs dont like more than 5 psi. yes you can run it with out a reg but over time you wont have the flood probs that allot of guys have. you dont have to run a carb spacer but you can and it wont hurt either way, i run a 1in wood type spacer on my 390, it helps the carb run cooler,but on my comet i just run a felpro fiber type thick base gasket as it helps insulate carb from intake heat. i just looked at your pics again and im wondering if you have the drivers side vacuum nipple plugged, the passenger side is where the vac advance hooks up. also is there a plug in the back of the carb? keep us posted whitey
those carbs are great for people who just want to bolt it on and go.they will almost always have a stumbel when you floor it.i had acouple of them and they are pretty easy to tune.i would sugest that you buy a strip kit.back in the day you use to get these free with the carters.first mess around with the metering rods.when you think you got it then mess around with the jets.then springs,cam,accelerator pump,etc.i took my maverick out to the track years ago and shaved off 2 seconds my et.with just rod changes.i later went with a holly and shaved off another second!!!
Sadly, when you buy a "used" carb, you have no idea where it is currently tuned. Edelbrocks tend to run pretty good at baseline setup, so look it up or call edelbrock, purchase the tuning kit (usually 20-30 bucks), and get it back to stock. THEN start to fine tune it to your needs. If stock cam and heads, carb should run fine at stock configuration.
Thanks. Thanks to all. maverick75,Bryant,markso125,Coolvettes,whitey68,scooper77515 *Yes I have one plastic spacer(To use under the carb.). But the hood doesn´t close, now I´m using a small filter. *Open hot, close cold. And wired. **I don´t have a timing light and vacuum gauge. (Thats a problem). I turn the distributor a little, and checked it where the car is Ok. **I need to do this correctly. *Thats a problem. It is used and I can´t know the History. *The altitude is 7,250feets aprox. (Maybe this one of the problems.). *Before this post I read the manual, but doesn´t help me. *Yeah it is plugged on the correct place. *In the back and driver side I put a cap. *Yeah, I need one. *No. Between the manifold and carb I don´t have. *Yeah I´m gonna buy one. Conclusion. First: I´m gonna set the ignition timing with the mechanic. Second: Buy a tuning kit and change the jets.
You should tear it apart, and see what rods, and springs it has in it. You can download the chart from their website.
the first things i would do if i was going to try to fix this is: 1: take top off carb and find out what jets, meter rods and metering rod springs are in the carb. if they are not the ones that come stock in the carb i would replace them with the correct one. i live at sea level so i have no experience with altitude compensation so at this point you should do what ever recommended altitude adjustment there is. 2: set timing 3: set idle mixture. if you have no vacuum leaks and everything is mechanically sound it should run really well.
Sorry to be rude and disrespectul, but seriously, you need to get it back to stock specks before you start messing with it. You have no idea where it is now, since it is used. Set it back to stock and THEN adjust it. Trust me. I have done the same thing, and ended up selling a fine carb because of it.
Ok with your altitude or approximately 7250 feet above sea level you will need to be in the 8% to 12% leaner then the stock calibration for that carb to run properly. If you are using the stock rods and jets you will be running so rich it will make your eyes water. The first thing you are going to have to do is lean it out before you can attempt to tune it. Looking at the chart in the manual the 1406 carburetor came with a .098 main jet (PN 1427) and a main rod of .075" x .047"(PN 1459) you pop the top of the carburetor off and the jets will say either 1427 or 120-1427, I am betting that if the stock jet is the same then the rod is the stock one also. So ultimately you need a combination of smaller jet diamaters or bigger rod diamaters. You have three basic choices to keep within the 8% - 12% leaner range on the chart that is given in the manual, but there is only one available as part of the edelbrock calibration kit PN 1487 and that is a 12% leaner on the cruising range but it is only about 6% leaner on the power range, so it will flood down on the bottom end when you start out and become optimum while cruising. What that calibration consists of is a .095 main jet (PN 1426) and a .075" x .047" main rod (PN 1459) The best option I see uses a 8% decrease on both the power and the cruising range, this might end up a little rich still but it will be close to what you want at that altitude. That calibrations consists of a .092 main jet (PN 1425) and a .070" x .047" main rod (PN 1451) both of those will have to be purchased seperately from a calibration kit. Now for the secondary jets I would put in a .089 jet (PN 1424) that is an 8% lean condition over the factory jet. Untill you get the jets changed not much else will have that good of an effect on the carb
Ok: I´m gonna see what jets and rods has the carb. Depending what I´ll found inside. But I don´t know what suggestion to choice. ( scooper77515 or markso125) Now I have more usefull information, Thanks guys. Do I really need a carb spacer? Should I feel the difference between the stock carb 2bb and the 4bb? My car feels more slowly now. Only can say this.... Thanks.
