Street only. There are some more photos in my "Images" link, John I imagine I lose something with the bar not being straight across the uprights but the car is not for drag racing and only for the street. I didn't want the bar under the dash and hitting my shins on it. I'm looking into installing a gusset in the "S" area once I get more of the dash put back together and see what room i have left
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback I also looked through your gallery and am impressed with your build. I will also be running a Watts setup with my rear 4 link and coil overs and your photo on that subject really caught my eye
Wow, MAV1970! I also just looked at your gallery. Fantastic! The cleveland is exactly what I want to do with mine in a year or two. What headers did you use? And your cage is really nice especially the way it drops down for the rear seat. I doubt it would be NHRA legal but it's very nice. Very impressive work.
Thanks John I built the cage to be street use friendly not for NHRA. The headers are from a 69-70 Mustang and kind of fit. I had to notch the right side frame rail and box it it for that side header to fit. The driver's side header is going to make for a really custom clutch release set up. It will have to be hydraulic for sure.
Building The Steel Tilt Front End Well, It was time to move onto a new sub-project so I decided to begin some progress on my tilt front end made out of the stock steel pieces. The front fenders will be cut along the horizontal body line, which is the shortest horizontal part of the fender so no part of the wider points at the fender bottoms will scrape any of the doors on their arc to being fully tilted forward. The rear sections of my original front fenders were plagued by the Pennsylvania road rot so I already knew I needed to replace them no matter what. A while ago, I bought 2 nice Texas rear cut offs from Rick Brooks. Today, I cut the Texas fender bottoms and the Pennsylvania full fenders leaving an inch or so overlap which I'll trim as the pieces are being fitted together. No sense trying to split hairs at this point. The next thing that I need to work on will be replacing the front bumper brackets with tubing that will pivot on the tubing crossmember, that sticks through my front frame rails, right in front of the engine. Then I will build off of these tilt brackets to connect the rest of the "dots".
Nice work Bob! Don't quite understand abt cutting the fender panels an inch or so overlap to be trimmed as fitted together. Im not much of a metal fabricator, so I guess I'll have to just use imagination. 1.) I was wondering when u installed the new suspension, did u have the axle center lines marked on the garage floor? Im assuming u have stock wheelbase. 2.) Single or dual piston calipers? 3.) What color is the car going to be? 4.) Plan to have it on the road sometime nx yr?
Dang you work fast. It's amazing how much you have done. Is it camera tricks or is the engine sitting a little low?
Nice work Bob! Don't quite understand abt cutting the fender panels an inch or so overlap to be trimmed as fitted together. Im not much of a metal fabricator, so I guess I'll have to just use imagination. Thanks Everett. The reason for the excess left behind on the fender pieces is I didn't want to try to commit to perfect fit cuts today. I just left some extra on the pieces and will sand them down to fit later. 1.) I was wondering when u installed the new suspension, did u have the axle center lines marked on the garage floor? Im assuming u have stock wheelbase. I took measurements from the firewall forward and from the trans crossmember forward before I cut the stock stuff off - yes stock wheelbase 2.) Single or dual piston calipers? Metric GM (Monte Carlo-Regal-Cutless-Grand Prix) single piston 3.) What color is the car going to be? Camaro Hugger Orange 4.) Plan to have it on the road sometime nx yr? By spring it WILL roll out of the garage - maybe even under it's own power
Actually the Cleveland sits a little higher than I would have wanted it to and a little bit more forward. I had to build a drop bracket for the rack so the cut out in the Canton oil pan could get as close as possible to the MII crossmemer without touching it.
Bob, I thought at first you left extra in order to roll it so it would have a fuller appearance when the front end was tilted rather than a thin cut edge. You are moving right along now.
Hmmm. Might be the angle. Just seems the carbs are not in the drivers view enough from the angle in the photo lol. I would like to see carbs in MY view
Great work Bob! ...and nice pictures. Wow...that is a BIG engine, and intake. Are you revealing what your engine setup is yet?
1972 351 CJ original Q Code Cleveland - an engine I drove for 4 years in a Gran Torino Sport before the body fell apart - stroked to 393 cubes 4 bolt main Cleveland block - decked, line bored and cylinders bored .030 Keith Black forged reverse dome pistons Scat 6 inch I Beam Chevrolet rods (hoping the Cleveland doesn't reject them LOL) Scat 3.85 stroker crank Boss 351 closed chamber 4V heads 10 to 1 compression New stainless valves - 2.09 intake 1.71 exhaust Comp Cams Extreme Energy 274H hydraulic cam and lifters Scorpion roller rockers 1.73 ratio 9 position billet double roller timing chain set Melling oil pump w/Canton pickup and tube Weiand Tunnel Ram manifold with dual 450 Holley carbs Canton pan sold to put a 351C into a Fox body Mustang Hooker Comp headers built to fit a 70 Ford Mustang