Whats the best way to figure out where an exhaust leak is at? It sounds like its coming from the drivers side, but I cant find it. I have hooker 6901 headers, hooker collectors, hooker gaskets and everything titghtened as far as I can get it and it still leaks. I know for a fact where the collector meets with the header is very tight and has no leaks. There are a few places on the header I cannot get a wrench or socket into to tighten it, one of the only cons about the 6901's Please let me know what you would recommend besides pouring tranny fluid down the carb.
Take a box end wrench and grind the box end, to make it thinner around the outside, this will make it fit easier against the header tube. I'd also check the header bolt length, sometime they bottom out in the head, not pull the header & gasket tight to the head.
I used 7/16 hex head header bolts. With my headers, they're easy to access with a long box end wrench. Had to buy a couple of sets before I got the right length.
7/16 is what im using right now. All the ones in front of the car are easy to access and tighten. All the ones in the back are a pain in the @$$. Hopefully shaving the boxed end of the wrench works. I dont understand why hooker made the headers were the boxed end fits all the ones in the front but not the back.
I agree on them being a pita to install, but everyone told me to get them so I listened. I like them a lot just need to fix this leak. Im sure its at the back drivers side since I cant tighten them.
Headers are cool, they are one of the first rights of passage for a car guy. Anyone can bolt on easy stuff, headers are a real challenge, I still remember my first set on a Maverick, my girlfriend at the time (my wife now) was ready to kill me, since I asked her to help.
headers are definitely a right of passage. there are lots of little tricks to living with headers. arp makes header bolts that take a 3/8s wrench. you can fit a box end on every one when you use these. if you use the paper gaskets that come with the headers its best to soak them in water for at least 1/2 and hour and install them while they are wet. ceramic coated headers really do help keep the heat down under hood and also help keep the headers from rusting out over time. carefull routing of the plug wires so they are as far as possible from the headers will keep them from geting burnt. the right header can make a big difference in power. its a matter of matching the flow requirements. with stock heads you wont see much gain with headers. with aftermarket heads, headers will make allot of difference.
Same here, ARP 3/8" head and Percy graphite gaskets. Also on 6901s. Not easy by any means, but the best option I've seen so far.
sorry to get off topic and not be in my own topic...but what about plug wire boots? i just seen them in a local parts flyer for 55 bucks for 8...seems crazy to me for 55 bucks but do they work? because buying wires at 85 bucks a set adds up pretty quick
To track down the header leak (and a lot of other engine noises, too, like alternators and water pumps going bad), take a broom stick and press it against suspect areas on the motor. Place your ear against the other end of the broomstick, and you will be amazed at what you are able to clearly hear. Watch out for moving parts (fans and belts), and if the headers are really hot, they may singe the broomstick.
The gaskets that came with it are these shinny aluminum looking ones. I put Red rtv around the hole and tightened them as tight as they would go before dropping the engine in. I cant remember which side I had to take off to get the engine to sit properlly, I want to say it was the passenger side. If shaving the opened end box wrench doesnt work, then it looks like im getting the 3/8's arp bolts. Just want the leak to go away. The car should sound a lot better than what it does. Should be able to give an update this weekend. Thanks again for your help!
