I was going to suggest Eastwood's No-Weld Panel Replacement Kit http://www.eastwood.com/ew-no-weld-panel-repair-kit.html but they've changed it to include Clecos, dimpling pliers, flanging pliers, etc. I believe I bought a kit from them that was just the adhesive and tips. The Eastwood kit just uses a regular caulking gun. I only used it for a couple of small seams on a Beetle 3 years ago. I love Clecos for holding panels for welding but don't see how they could be used with adhesive. Seems like they'd get stuck to the panels.
Guess they're $3-$4 a piece new but seems like it might distort the panel getting them unstuck. Clecos and adhesive don't sound like a good combination. I suppose you'd have to be careful where the dozens of clamps got placed to not get 'em stuck with adhesive oozing up thru the holes where the spot welds used to be?
well I swung by just now. ordered the 3m epoxy and they said they'de let me borrow the gun, so good deal
I did the job Thursday afternoon, and let the stuff setup until today (Sat morning) and its still mildly tacky and I removed clamps from one corner and the cowl tried to move Did anybody else use tack welds to help the panel hold? Or should I let the stuff dry longer?
Which panel bonder did you buy? Also, it is recommended by 3M that when you first start using their product you squeeze out an inch or two of the mix on something else. This is to make sure everything is mixed all the way through. Then start using the mix on whatever it is you are bonding together. Also, both panels need to be bare metal (where the bonder is applied) as well as have the panel bonder applied to both panels. Then put the two panels together, clamp down, and wipe off whatever squeezes out. Glenn
I bought the 3m adhesive, 08115. I followed the instructions just as you wrote. I'm figuring it might be the cold weather, could slowing the hardening process of the epoxy. Can I start throwing some tac welds around the panel to help hold, without this harming the adhesive?
Yes you can tack it in a few places. How cold is it there? Ideally you want the metal temp up around 70 degrees for the curing process.
55 degrees the day I put on and we had heater going in the garage, but its dipped into the 30's while panels set, ok I'll throw a few welds around the cowl and let it setup some more.
The stuff I used was still slightly tacky to the touch, but none of the panels tried to move. I did use a few spot welds as well as heavy duty rivets in some places. A lot of the panel adhesives we get on new cars are somewhat tacky to the touch also by the time we get them.
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=SSSSSu7zK1fslxtUo8_GM82Sev7qe17zHvTSevTSeSSSSSS--&fn=DFU%2008115.pdf It says, with a little heat it'll cure faster, make try a heat gun.
Mine dried perfectly in a couple of hours and was not tacky. I did not spot weld anything. I think spot welding it would totally defeat the whole purpose of using it. I think something went wrong here and I suspect it may be the temperature. You should go back to where you bought it and ask some questions or try to get 3M on the phone.
The Ford stuff I used was made by Lord chem in conjunction with FoMoCo. I suspect they all may have different curing characteristics but Ford specifically called for the ability to spot weld through a properly clamped panel. The TSB that applies(I forget the number) gives instructions on setting the proper spot weld equipment and performing a destruction test prior to actually setting the panels for assembly. The Motorcraft # is TA-1-B for the adhesive.
