I am looking for suggestions and tips to powder coat. I have paid for having gates powder coated but never actually done it myself. Now I have some products that I am wanting to produce and manufacture and want to see if I can do this part myself in my shop. The parts are about 2'x2'x4". I am hopeing to be able to do several at a time.
eastwood sells a diy powercoat kit. you just need a oven big enough fit the parts. a 2'x2' part will be tricky to find a oven to fit. maybe a restaurant oven. there are stores that sell restaurant equipment that has been removed from closed restaurants.
i really dont know what temp it needs to be at. for some reason 400 comes to mind but i have no reason to know.
The profesional ovens I see on ebay are gas.. From what I have read powder coating isn't flammable.. no voc's.
I do powder coating on the side with a friend,the temp varys by your powder some suggest 10 min at 400f some 350 it just depends.We've never had a problem using our gas over but its an industrial Parts burner.We can burn parts up to 3' x 4',we do 4 wheels at a time and it works fine we use a cheap Craftsmen gun we got off of ebay there $35 each we bought 2 and have been using the first 1 for about 2 months now with no problems.
When we powdercoat we do 10 mins at 400. It all has turned out very well so far. We just use a cheap conventional oven we had laying around. One wheel at time lol
Interesting.. I was reading about "burning" parts. It said that burning powder coating off requires it to get up to like 1100*. I imagine if the oven can get that high it should be able to also cook/cure.
Gene, The curing temp for powder can be as low as 325F to 400F. Again this is the curing temp. The substrate, depending on it density; must reach the specified temp before it gels and then starts to cure. The manufacturer of the powder will give you that info when you buy some powder. Gas ovens are more common, and more cost effective in our industry. Our largest oven is 8'x8'x35'. The 1100F you mentioned is to remove (or burn off) powder from a defect or fixture. Controlling the temp is important to a consistent cure, not over or under cured. Today most powders have great over bake stability but MUST reach the cure temp for the specified time to fully cure. (Why large parts being cured with heat lamps can be an issue) IF it is not cured the material can chip easier, delaminate and I have even seen clear powders spider web from improper cure cycles. I have been powder coated for over 20 years...If any of you have tech questions on finishing I would be happy to help. www.perfectionindustrialfinishing.com
Thanks! What color are you and did you use flexing agents? jk Curious why the piston tops were coated.. Never seen that.
I always tell everyone that we can coat anything!!! As for colors isn't that racist?? haha That is a ceramic coating for combustion chambers.. (Shhh these are on one of my many Chevy's) we do a lot of that too! If your on Facebook look me up Charles Zinke Tucson
I was trying to be funny since you said you have been powder coated for 20 years.. I looked up "Charles Zinke Tucson" and it says no results
Here's mine http://www.facebook.com/#!/profile.php?id=1428370365 http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/Royal-Gates/166512525185
