Sprint Interior Work

So I've decided to gut the interior and start redoing everything. Searched hundreds of threads over the past few days and would like to thank all of those who have helped me by posting over the years.

I have everything out and luckily only appear to have surface rust after scraping the last of the tar paper off. I've misplaced my camera so I can't upload any pics but it is pretty solid which makes my life much easier considering I am learning everything as I go.

A couple of questions I couldn't find the answer to. I am planning to wire wheel everything, lay down 2 coats of rust bullet, brush on seam sealer, and then brush on bed liner from the front through the trunk. I will also spray all the nooks that I can't reach with the brush.

Is this the correct order? I noticed as I was scraping the tar paper off that a lot of the seam sealer was coming off really easy down to bare metal underneath. Should I seam seal before the rust bullet? Also, I have seen pics in various threads of the drain plugs taken out or left in before covering everything? Is there a right way to do this?

Anyways, thanks for the help and I will definitely be updating with my progress as well as posting for the various trim parts I need.

 

I would rust bullet the bare metal...THEN do the seam sealer and put the plugs back in.

I am not sure I would put the bedliner in the trunk. I guess if you only do the parts under the trunk mat...then it would look O.K. On my car, I had the trunk media blasted on the inside, epoxy primer, seam sealed, then body color paint. Put in the mat and called it a day.

 

Only "Bare Metal" seam sealer should be user over bare metal. Otherwise, prime first. I put Eastwood's seam sealer over bare metal, and it rusted underneath and lifted. I should have primered first. There's something about the seam sealer trapping moisture. A professional body guy, unlike myself, could probably explain it better.

 

I havent seen our body shop use seam sealer on bare metal. Its usually near the end of the process.

 

Seam sealer after primer/before final paint color...

 

Thanks guys, that helps a lot. Spent the evening taking the back windows, and headliner out.

 

A couple of updates on where I am and what my plans are. Please excuse the amateurish job I am doing.

I was planning just to do the interior right now and get it ready for the roundup but that is not going to happen now. I started with rust proofing the floor. Luckily, there was just surface rust and it cleaned up pretty well. I have rust bullet and am planning on painting it in the next couple of days.



Everything was so dried out, I decided I was going to replace all of the weatherstripping as well. Once I removed everything though, I've decided that since I've gone this far I might as well go all the way with getting the car painted. I didn't see the point it putting all that money into something that I would want to complete later on.

Now this where my budget and willingness to learn have run out some. I've practiced hammering out the front and rear valences and have gotten decent results but not sure I want go any farther with the body work. There are minor dents and such but nothing too bad. The only rust is one spot on the drivers rear-quarter panel that I haven't looked at too closely yet.

I figure I can get the paint done this fall if I can find something for ~2-3 grand. The original paint is in good condition so I don't think it has to go to bare metal. But then again, if I knew what I was doing I would be doing it myself. Does this sound reasonable? If any of you know anyone around Southwest Michigan let me know, otherwise I'll keep saving.

A couple of questions though, I stored the Sprint this fall with the intention of driving it this spring so I just filled the gas tank, put some stabilizer in it, ran it and parked it. Now it doesn't look like I'll be starting it for at least another year. Is there anything else I need to do to store it properly? I would like to pull the engine and paint the entire engine bay but have no idea how. I have searched but haven't found anything relevant so if any of you have suggestions I would be grateful.

And to finish off, here is a pic of my mom's sprint with my older sister.


This was taken in Southern Utah sometime in '78 or '79. It was a V8 and notice that vinyl top. Also, apparently this was the good side of the car. The other side had a lot more rust. I doubt it is around any more.

Ted

 

Ted...If its going to sit for a year, drain the fuel and put it in your regular use vehicles. I would pull the engine/trans out of the car to facilitate prepping/painting the engine compartment. Do the interrior floorpan as you planned, try not to leave any bare metal exposed during storage. If you are usure about doing the body/paint yourself...Find a local body/paint shop that deals with old cars. Tell them what you have...What you want/expect (be explicit) Tell em its allready a bare shell. (you have done the grime work for em) See what they say/how much it will cost, If you catch em right for the right price...You may not have to store it for a year...Let them store it and do the work during down time but...Give em a deadline they have to meet. (if you dont, your car may be in paint limbo longer than you expect) Have a budget figured out and see if they can meet it. Once they give you a price (they are gonna have to see the car and its parts to be painted) to do so...Haggle with em if you think they will deal, ask for options, things you can do to lessen the cost etc...Not all but, some shops are willing to deal a bit. Good luck!!!

 

Thanks, Mavman,:Handshake yep, I think I am going to have to go all the way and pull the engine. Probably shouldn't started a bit smaller on my first project but I have to learn sometime. I am just grateful that the cowl and floor is solid. Any advice on pulling the engine? I know I'll need an engine hoist but that is about it for what I know.

Ted

 

Its pretty simple actually. Drain coolant/pull radiator out. Drain oil from engine(not absolutely necessary) But it will save any mess from happening while storing it.Pull driveshaft (if you dont have an old driveshaft front yoke laying around) You can put a spray paint can lid over the trans tail and tape it up real good with duct tape. This will prevent you from getting trans fluid everywhere. Disconnect the exhaust pipes from the manifolds,all linkages and wireing/hoses from engine/trans. Attach your hoist of choice to the engine.Disconnect trans mount from trans,then pull the mount bracket off the car. ( Support the trans with a block of wood or three) Pull the two bolts attaching the engine mounts to the frame stands.(You may have to lift the engine a bit to get the weight off the bolts to get em out of the mounts) Then its a simple matter of raising the engine and tipping it back a bit to get the trans to clear the tunnel and the damper to clear the core support and its out man! Take the fan off the front of the engine too before pulling the engine out. (It likes to get in the way, and tries real hard to cut you up while doing the removal) Have an extra body to help you muscle that chunk of iron and aluminium out of the hole and you will have it done in no time. I can do a Mav engine pull in an hour if I take my time. Its really pretty simple...Good luck!!!


Just remeber this: An engine hoist is designed to test the tensile strength of every thing you faild to disconnect...

 

Finished up the second coat of Rust Bullet on the floor from fire wall through the trunk. Also did the cowl drain area under the fenders. I will let it fully cure for a couple of days and then do the seam sealer. Now, to start taking apart the engine bay.

 

That looks great! Nice work.

 

After much advice from Mavman72, I pulled the engine and transmission this week. It was a fun job and I feel pretty proud getting it all done with no hands-on help from anyone. I was turning the load leveler the wrong direction for about 30 minutes before I realized it. But in the end came out with no damage and minimal mess.


Eventually I'll need to push the car out of my garage onto a trailer once I find someone to do the body and paint. So, my question is what needs to be left on the car. I'm assuming I can take off all the power steering equipment, the charcoal canister and line, I've already removed the gas tank, I'm thinking I can take the gas lines off as well to clean them up. How about the steering column? I figure I'll still be able to push the car the direction it needs to go to get on the trailer but have never done something like this before.

Thanks

Ted

 

Thanks, exactly what I was thinking. So I guess my question is what has to be left on the car to roll it and probably turn it a little bit? I am assuming just the rear axle and the front wheels but all the front brakes, steering and shocks can be removed?

 

Plus all the brake lines, and fuel vapor line. If your doing this much, you may as well replace them. The interior shots of your car are amazing, nice solid car.