What oil weight and which kind of oil do you use?

I run 20/50 vr1 mine stays around 75 lbs all the time you have to run zinc in your oil with flat tappet cam or yours is already bad

 

Even that dont work for flat tappet cam unless zinc added

 

yeah.. maybe like 10 years ago when everyone was freaking out from its reduction. lol Because I to.. went through a phase of running VR-1 oil just for that very reason. And it's also about the phosphorous.. not just the zinc itself.

nowadays it's all about the additive packages included in the recipe.. and zinc alone is not the end all solution anymore.

read that first page in the link I included above(that OP even tests for zinc/phos levels too).. and consider that most guys run what they prefer these days( I personally know dozens running solid flats without issue) . biggest concern is the break in period and then you're usually home free.

 

You might be right, I've probably built 1000 . Motors In my life working at at engine shop, probably 8 out. 10 motors we do that hve flat tappets or ruined, but doent matter to Me who am I ,I just know I'm not telling anyone to run oil without zinc in anything older that 1985 or newer with flat tappet cam,and I find in sbf if built to spec its hard to keep the pressure down we have even added extra clearence to pumps to lower presure as I said mine runs around 75 lbs all the time well maybe 70 to 80 I should have worked my pump but I was wanting to have mine ready for the roundup so it was a quicky build it had been a 289 boss build I removed heads and freshened it with tfs heads

 

ok.. I apparently touched a nerve there and ruffled some feathers. Not my intention with a simple "I don't agree" type of reply.

And I've only got about 1/10 that building experience under my belt(mostly other peoples money) and I can only go off that.. and what hundreds of others(including many world class builders) are doing. I also frequent 3 major machine/speed shops that build high-end motors.. and they too don't put huge emphasis on the "need" to use additives for anything other than run in periods.. unless the motor is full race and restricted to flats.

In the end.. the way I look at is this. "Streetable" flat tappets aren't dying by the millions like people once thought they would when ZDDP was reduced.. and that is evidence enough for me to not worry about it until I start hitting over about 500-600 lbs of spring pressure.

 

I doubt you'll find anybody getting puffed up and indignant to defend the quality of a Fram oil filter. I wouldn't put one on anything I cared about. Not only do they use poorly assembled, cheap filter medium and not much of it, if you run one for too long they have been known to come apart inside and pump disintegrated filter material along with a few thousand miles of accumulated funk through your engine.

The only thing I like about a Fram oil filter it's very easy to get it the hell off that engine thanks to the "Sure-Grip" material they put on the end of it.

 

Regarding the wix filters, o'reilly's carry both wix oil & air filters now. I've heard good reviews about them-just wanted to pass that on.

 

I like Napa Gold filters, I ran them for years before switching to K&N ones. And I only run those because I get them dirt cheap.

 

http://www.300cforums.com/forums/ge...ble-shooting/31190-oil-filters-dissected.html

 

From my understanding NAPA Golds are made by Wix, the silver line is not.

 

Excellent review!

 

Last I heard, only 3 companies made oil filters for cars. What's in a name. On top of that, at about 2000 rpm, the oil filter can't handle the voluum and the oil goes through the oil filter by-pass. So really your oil is only geting filtered in the driveway.

 

That is excellent! Thanks for posting it. Pretty much confirmed what I already felt about Fram, STP and SuperTech - DO NOT BUY YOUR FILTERS AT WALMART.

 

I'm not ruffled doing same as you just giving my opinion

 

I use Castrol Magnatec