It's probably been asked a million times but... I've been wanting to go 351w stroked but would also consider a 347 for easier fitment. I'd use the best heads I could afford and probably top it with a vic jr or a funnel web. I imagine such a combo would potentially rev to 7k and make 400hp to the wheels. Does that sound about right? Think there would be any issues if I would just run it naturally aspirated and avoid nitrous? Another thing to consider is I'll probably keep running a C4 so this might be crankier than a stroker 351w, it will be a street car taken to as many test and tunes (amateur nights?) as I can.
I put the links to Evilbay just to show what parts you would need to put in the motors to make the kind of HP you want/need to put 400hp on the ground........................then you need a suspension to handle that.....like CalTraks, frame connectors.............8.8 or 9" Ford...............3000/3500 stall converter with beefed up C4...............some really good headers....good brakes..........................so how much do you expect to spend on this project???????????????????? I am sure you will get varied opinions but for me if you are going to invest that kind of money the most bang for your buck would be a 351w. You can not beat cubic inches...............and cubic inches means torque.........and that is what gets you to the finish line first. Now, with that said I personally wouldn't trust a stock block 302 with 2 bolt mains much more than 450hp...............but that depends on who puts it together also. So, to get to your 400hp ATRW's this is about what you need to make. I personally wouldn't feel good about spinning 7krpm constantly with a 2 bolt main stock block, but that is just me. Yes, there are people out there saying they have pushed stock blocks to over 500hp..................my reply is...........good for you! http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-347-ST...pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr Here is another way to go, although it would be a tight fit, but.............. http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-408CI-...t=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr Or maybe this way........................................................ http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-351W-4...pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr I guess what I was trying to do is that which ever way you go it's going to cost about the same money.................so why go small when you can go bigger if the cost is the same? So, if you want to make 500hp either use NO2, blower/supercharger on a mild motor............which is much more streetable....................IMHO
The stock 302 block will split at 550-600hp. A 400whp small block isn't going to be very streetable NA, might want to look into forced induction.
Just to add to the conversation, will the 5.0 block split around the same time as the 302? I only have about 360 hp (flywheel) but I spin it often to 6500 rpms, and sometimes 7000 rpms. I notice it tends to not make any gains if I go over 6500 so I usually shift there or a little lower if I am showing off, but around 3500 when I am just cruising. So, is it the hp, torque, or rpm that splits the block? If a combination, what is it that does it?
Anyone know of any website for getting an aprox HP of a motor? Im trying to get a close HP of my 302 without putting it on a dyno.
I used desktop dyno2000 and it was pretty close to what the real dyno said. It is more accurate with the more details you can put into it. It asks some pretty technical stuff, such as cam specs, cc's quench area (or whatever that space is called), deck height, etc.
If it's been asked before and you know it just search it up on google. You'll find your answers in seconds
There used to be a number of sites but I think most of them are no longer around, plus most desktop systems are really not very close. I put my engine on desktop dyno and it said I should make 700+hp....on the dyno it only made 640hp...................that's 60hp difference...........there is nothing like "real world" testing! Try this, for less than $100 it should give you and estimate.............or you could pay $400 more and have it put on a real dyno................IMHO http://www.virtualengine2000.com/DynoOverview.htm
Maybe if I had a 5 speed it would be more streetable. Sounds like a 351w stroker is the way to go. I know it's not going to be cheap. I already have a 9" rear end with 3.73s and a limited slip diff. The car is set up with SSM lift bars and I have some subframe connectors in my garage waiting to be welded in.
Wow, my dyno session lasted two hours, included suggestions on how to tune the carb (I did the work), with 4 pulls, and only cost me $100. Done by the guy with the fastest mustang in the world, at that time. http://www.strictlypro.com/
Scooper, I didn't mean a chassis dyno, I meant an engine dyno. My engine was on the dyno for a day and half.............it took half a day to set it up. Yes, I've spent many days on a chassis dyno and you used to be able to rent the dyno and operator for $500 for a full day. Depending on how much tuning (disassembly) you could get 12/15 pulls in. If you split it between two cars you only had to pay $250 each, but then you usually only got in maybe 5/7 pulls.
Not if you use an early block, late 70 throug early 74..............then put some 4blt mains and it should be good for over 700hp........as long as you don't go much over .030 or .040 max. Here is a picture of my 71 block waiting for the boring bar.
also if it is a drag only car, putting in hard blok can extend the rpm range since you will stop cylinder walk
I believe a 351w block is good for 700hp but not really sure. It's more likely to stay together if you keep it under 6000rpm. Another reason to boost it is rpm is harder on the block then boost (with a good tune anyway).