Wheelhopopotamous.....t5 swap suspensions q's etc...

Well against everyone's advice I got a detroit locker and 4.11 gear put in the stock 8" rear, this replaced the open rear with 2.79's on 25.5" tires...

All I can say is 3500rpm is maybe 60mph....not fun on the freeway.

Versus to the rear end shop I was cruising 3000rpm and doing like closer to 70+

With my c4 being stock and slipping I am looking for trans options....I can see T5's can be had for around 700$ rebuilt around here. That is way cheaper than any c4 rebuild...

So first off, after the gear change I am getting MAJOR wheel hop. It hits the body and jumps allover the place in a scary way. Will new springs and some cheap traction bars stop this for now? I am sure the springs will be 99% of the cure as I think they are stock and fairly soft.


Next, is ANYONE making a T5 swap cross-member yet?

Onto the clutch, if I go cable is there a bolt to the floor style of clutch pedal that is fairly cheap and easy to install?

How does the T5 fit as far as headers go? Will they need to be removed for installation?


thanks yall.

 

Wow after reading every thread on t5's maybe an aod is more my style!

Sounds like a ton of work for the t5...

 

The big issue with the T-5 is the clutch setup...The trans mount is available...Frank Cooper (71Gold) makes a T-5 cross member for the 70 Mav that will work for the 71 and up. You just have to get it from him un-assembled and weld it up. The only other issue I can see is getting the correct angle on the trans tail. I am currently in the midst of doing a T-5 swap in my blue mav. Have the clutch sorted out parts wise, just have to get it all in the car to be certain its gonna function as advertised. ( I am going with an integral Hyd release bearing/master set up)

 

the t5 swap is the best thing i did to my car. the clutch pedal is the tricky part. there are many ways to do it. all of them have their unique challenges to make work.
i prefer hydraulic over cable. its a little harder to get installed but seems to be allot smoother than a cable and seems to require less pedal effort than a cable. if you select the right size master and salve cylinder sizes you can achieve a better mechanical advantage than can be created with a cable.

personally i feel a stick shift in any car that is used for fun on the street is allot more fun with a stick. also i feel a stick shift car will be faster than an auto up to the 11sec 1/4 mile point with all other factors being equal.

 

Anyone use the floor mount pedal/master setup? seems way too easy to be useful...

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Hydraulic-Clutch-Pedal-Kit-Floor-Mount,57507.html

Also maybe an aod is another option....With a manual valve body, trans brake, 2700 stall lockup converter, behind my wimpy 350hp would make it be a real runner!

 

Caltracs will take care of the wheel-hop. But won't help much with the high cruising rpms!

I run a 3.80 gear and cruising on the highway is just barely bearable. I usually cruise a little slow at 60 mph, at around 2800-3000 rpms. Still pulls 20 mpg, but it seems to be screaming down the highway, compared to the 1700 rpm cruise in my daily driver.

 

Yes i have that can actually be mounted 3 ways, as a firewall mount, hanging or floor
I used the same assembly as a firewall mount with no issues

 

I agree with this for the most part... the only part I dont agree with is I actually thought the hydraulic was an easier install over the cable setups. Everything else is 100% correct.
I found I just had to drill the holes in my firewall and one hole on my pedal assembly to mount the hydraulic master cylinder. Everything else just bolted up and I could route the hydraulic line wherever I wanted. Especially if you go for an external slave cylinder for the clutch.
Looking at the guys doing the cable installs they do almost all the same drilling in the firewall but they have to mess with installing the quadrant on their pedal assembly, where some have cut their old pedal tube and welded newer pedals in that accept the quadrent and then they have to route the clutch cable through the exhaust so it both works smoothly and so it doesnt get roasted. I honestly dont know why they would spend as much if not more money as a hydralic setup and go through all that extra work.

 

WOW AOD's are INSANELY expensive...700$ for a good valve body...Is it gold plated?


The T5 swap sounds more and more like what I want to do. As I have said I am only 23 so there are some things I HAVE to farm out on this car, automatic transmissions, rear ends, and thats been it so far. I have figured out all the paint and body work (looks ok not that great) I can do suspension no problems, brakes (power front disc) and build a 302 up apparently (so far runs good?), wiring, gauges, upholstery (still need some decent seats)

But rear ends and transmissions still scare me, luckily the rear is done. The guy said if I can break the 8" locker and gears on the street he will replace the broken parts for free. (Challenge accepted!)


So if I pull a whole T5 from a 88-93 5.0L mustang, clutch, flywheel, bellhousing etc. Can that then be converter for hyd clutch use? Will the trans clear my headman headers?

Also 71 gold's cross-member does not come assembled? That might be a stick in the spokes.


Is there a pedal box for all 3 pedals? How do the pedal boxes work with the brakes? They have their own master cylnder that replaces the brake booster? So you lose power brakes?


Thanks guys big help, I really am getting excited about a T5! I will get great off the line acceleration, big smokey burnouts and good freeway rpm!

 

For the 70,you can get it allready welded together...Give frank a shout, he'll hook you up.

 

I pm'd frank.


Parts list so far;

Speedway hyd clutch kit floor mounted

Mustang 88-93 T5 with belhousing, clutch, flywheel, driveshaft and shifter

The driveshaft may or may not work correctly right?

T5 crossmember from frank.

A way to bend the hyd. solid line from clutch master to slave.

I need a hyd clutch shift fork?

Do I need a bracket to mount the slave? Im fuzzy on that detail.


Thank you.

 

the clutch fork is the same for the hydraulic unit as the stock T5 clutch fork.

And yes you need a bracket too mount the slave, several members have made their own or you can buy a bracket, or you can even buy a slave and bracket setup.
http://www.rosehillperformanceparts.com/Products_Page.htm#-:T5 Hydraulic Clutch Bracket Kit:-

 

I dont think you will have room to floor mount that setup. I would look at what Mashori and Bryant did. Use a hanging pedal with master cylinder thats comes with it. There is a tech article on it. I did the same thing they did, actually used the bracket I got from Bryan he took off his car for me.

If you have an older 302 28oz balance engine you will need to find a flywheel to work with the T5 and be 28 oz balance, the mustang 5.0 stuff is all 50oz balance.

I love my 5 speed swap. I previously had a built AOD before switching to manual. Its like two totally different cars and both had their own benefits. but now its more of a street car so the 5 speed is more fun. If you havent already read Mashori's tech article you should read it, http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=66401 It was my instruction guide when I did my swap. BTW, I spent about $1000 all togethor doing my swap and thats with getting some decent deals on the T5 parts. Add in the clutch, flywheel, hydraulic stuff, and it got expensive pretty quick.

 

I have read that 2 times already actually.

I do not particularly like the way the pedal was done, but the floor mount might look really jimmy rigged....

If I do this I want to do it quickly and easily. I need to find a way to make the floor mount idea work fitment wise.

 

just some info that my be useful, I did my t5 swap a little different them most just to give you a little idea. I moved the brake cylinder away from the wall and mounted a separate master cylinder for the clutch beside it, a tight fit but it works. I use the stock peddles and made a linkage to the MS cylinder and used the stock peddle spring to counter act the MS cylinder. Cn the transmission i just made a bracket for the slave cylinder, after a lot of adjusting i got everything working great.