If that didn't trigger the inertia switch, what would?? Yep, electric can opener -- Sawz All. Taking it out was pretty easy. The trans and exhaust pipes had already been removed. We sawed the radiator support about half way down on each side and bent it forward. Didn't have to be concerned about ruining any good parts, that's for sure. Got the engine pretty reasonable. If it needs any rotating assembly work I'll have an excuse for a stroker.
Engine Stands and Transmission Picked up some engine frame stands from a '73(?) "bump side" F100 with a 302 in it. What a job to get them out!! Would have been easier if I had my helper but he was busy today. Wish Ford had welded the nuts to the frame -- would have made it a lot easier one-man job. Tomorrow I'll pick up a 4R70W transmission out of a '00 2WD F150 with a 4.2L V6. Supposed to be a good choice to go behind a 5.8L. Here's a quote from a Lincoln forum that gets referenced in other forums. BEST STOCK 4R70W THAT WILL BOLT TO WINDSOR V8 The BEST 4R70W trans that will bolt to a Windsor V8 is a '99 & newer 4.2 V6. It has all the best parts and the same number of clutches as the V8 mod motor transmissions. This trans has: best case, best accumulators, mechanical diode 1 way intermediate clutch, dimpled pan & extended pickup, 450hp capable gear set, best direct clutch drum, best direct clutch plates, best forward clutch wave plate good to 450 hp, best intermediate clutch (4 plate), best stub shaft). Just remember that for a car install, you must switch the manual lever to one from a car. NEXT BEST 4R70W TRANS THAT BOLTS TO 5.0 & 5.8 is '98 3.8 V6 or 4.2 V6. The difference from '99-up 4.2 V6 which will bolt to 5.0 & 5.8 is 1 less intermediate clutch plate - easy to add - and the valve body does not have good direct clutch fluid exhaust for 4-2 manual shifts. ALL prior to '98 do NOT have the expensive mechanical diode 1-way clutch
I want to do the CV front end, the Explorer 8.8 rear, and body and paint but am concerned if I try to do it all at once I might never get it done and it'll be a basket case for my wife to try to dispose of. (I'm 73.) Doing it in stages gives me multiple chances to complete a stage and have a running vehicle to sell. It also lets me drive it much earlier and get re-inspired a couple of times. So, I'm doing the engine and transmission as stage 1. The sbf frame stands might get me started on mounts for the 5.8L with the CV K-member. Just have to fab the inside seats for the frame mounts I think. When the time comes I look around to see if anyone has mounted a sbf in a bump side with the CV K-member and how they did it. Sound reasonable?
Floor Repair Panel Picked up some 16 gauge (was looking for 18 gauge but none to be found) sheet steel for the floor. Had to buy twice as much (24"X24") as I needed but it was still half the cost of a (thin, I'm sure) repair panel for just ONE side. Oh well, I now have a life time supply. I going to try butt welding the fender (and door?) repair panels rather than the overlaps that the Maverick repair panels got. The floors will be my practice to see how the butt welding goes. If it works for me it will be a lot neater. Rough cut a piece about 1/2" larger than needed on the inside and front edges. Put a bend in the front for the toe board and drilled holes for the Clecos (I LOVE them) to hold it in place. Then went under the truck and marked the outline to get the butted fit. Trimmed the repair panel to butt up to the floor. Notice the holes along the outside edge so the repair panel can be plug welded to the rocker panel. Originally, the floor was spot welded to the rocker panel. Now, you may think that slit in front outer corner is a errant cut but it's really there so a screw driver can be inserted to tap the panel to the side. Its a trick I learned from an old body man. That's my story and I'm stickin' to it. The front of the repair panel is slid under the floor but the overlap will be hidden by the frame for the cab mount. A pal is coming over Monday PM and we'll share the welding duties. We both want practice. His MIG outfit and my truck, so sharing seems fair. Should be able to get the other repair panel made and the garage cleaned up a little before then.
Got the patches welded into both side of the floor and POR 15 applied to the patches and surface rust on the floors. Brushable seam sealer will be applied to the patches and areas with surface rust and then semi-gloss POR15 will be applied to the whole lower interior. As always, found some more rust. The forward faces (under the truck) of the rear cab corners both have rust. The drain holes were blocked with old, original I assume, seam sealer. The driver side rust is cut out and a patch panel started. Given all the bends, I might have bought patch panels for these areas if I could have found them.
A little more progress Its a long story, but one thing led to another and the 5.8L block has been stripped and delivered to the machine shop. Cross hatch was still visible, no ridges, and everything miced out as standard. The shop will hot tank the block, magnaflux, hone the cyls, check everythihg for square and install cam bearings and freeze plugs. It'll get new rings and bearings. Another long story, but the Edelbrock top end kit didn't come. So, the shop that did the 347 for the Sprint will put together an alternative set of well-matched parts with Dart heads for considerably less money. I'll order that as soon as the block is done. The sheet metal is all off the front of the truck and the firewall and front frame are cleaned up, painted and waiting for the engine and trans to be set in place. Used Eastwood Epoxy primer and Satin Ceramic Chassis Black. Just ordered these headers. Looks like an excellent price and they reportedly fit well on the Windsor in the F100. Hope so. http://www.ebay.com/itm/30078869603...tem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OC:MOTORS:3160&vxp=mtr Think I'm settled on a Hughes converter. http://paceperformance.com/i-513711...00-2500-rpm-stall-speed-ford-4r70w-4r75w.html
Looking good. Now is a good time to do some brake upgrades. you can add a power booster to the 4 wheel drum setup. Or go with 73 and newer front disc brakes. Just have to change out the spindle at the king pin and bolt it all on. Should be alot of 73-78 F-100s in the jukyards.
Thanks, Ryan. :Handshake If all goes according to plan, the Crown Vic front end and Explorer rear axle will get done as phase 2 not too long after the engine & trans are done. So, I'm wasn't planning to upgrade any of the original brakes. But, the power brake booster is a very good idea. Expect that would be necessary with the replacement brakes anyway. I'd better start looking for the power brake setup. You don't have one, do you?
I could get a booster and ship it to you, but it may be a used one or one we had rebuilt. Then youd still need a master cylinder. After all that and shipping on the booster I think youd be better off getting this for $127 after the core charge. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/A1C0/503512/01305.oap?year=1972&make=Ford&model=F-100%2BPickup&vi=1119934&ck=Search_01305_1119934_3571&categoryRedirect=01305&pt=01305&ppt=C0066 then when you go to disc brakes later you just change the master cylinder out to a disc brake version from a newer truck.
I agree, that looks like a much better way to go. I'd like to find a power brake pedal to replace the clutch and manual brake pedal. I've checked the most likely junk yards here and didn't see any power brake stuff. Thanks for the tip.:Handshake
Are u going w/ all stock suspension? How do u like the Eastwood primer? U still have the Maverick? What u have done to the F100 looks gud..
Hey Everett, Stock suspension for now. If I get to Phase 2, the truck will get a Crown Vic front end with IFS, power disk brakes and power rack & pinion. (See earlier posts.) I like the Eastwood 1:1 Epoxy Primer but its the only thing I used (other than lacquer primer 100 years ago). Very little experience painting -- the Maverick was my first full paint job. I used it on the Maverick and Eastwood offered it in a kit with their ceramic chassis black.
Yep, still have the Maverick. While feeling some guilt about having money in TWO hobby vehicles, I did list it in the for sale section here at a price where I'd be willing (sort of) to sell it. Got one request for more recent pictures but didn't respond. Don't really want to part with it.
SO you want an automatic pedal assembly and just need the larger brake pedal? The power pedal is the same but the automatic pedal is the larger one. If thats what you need then I can get you that. You just want the pedal arm to replace in the pedal assembly or do you want a whole pedal assembly? Sometimes the bushing in the pedal assembly is shot and Im pretty sure we have new bushings and can set you up with just a pedal and some bushings or get a whole assembly ready to go.
