Well, my maverick, have new head gasket, new valve cover gasket, new manifold gasket, radiator clean and perfect with new hoses, good valve train, doesnt have leaks for nowhere, 13lbs radiator cap, no exhaust restrictions, rbs carburetor with new service, recently i replace the engine oil and filter, ignition timng set to 6° BTDC, new air filter, and of course the fan shroud, auxiliary electric fan ans 7 blades mechanical flex fan......and yet themy temp engine up to 210 in heavy traffic
The two fans are working right, that was revised too, when the electric fan is on the engine temperature drops slightly, That means that both are working fine!
If you're using an aftermarket flex fan, it won't work well. They are for racing and do not move as much air at slower speeds. Try to find a stock fan for an ac car with a 250.
Sorry I had said that my fan was a 7 blades mechanical flexfan,that is no true, the mine is a 6 blades mechanical flex fan....FLEX-A-LITE 1300 Series Fans - Standard rotation What is the stock fan for an ac car with a 250???'
at what RPM.. at some point the E-fan will be turning faster than the flex fan, at that time the flex fan is a wall that air can't pass through. at some point in time the flex fan will start breaking off the blades...
That is a very good point, and my answer is I dont know at what RPM only I know the electric Fan specifications: Thickness: 2.5" Motor RPM: 3000 AMP Draw: 7 Fuse Size AMP: 25 CFM: 1000 Only I have this information my friend, if you can tell me more about this point please....thanks
You need at lest 2000 cfm for a 6 cyl. 1000 isn't enough for a 4 cyl http://flex-a-lite-blog.com/2010/04/24/how-to-choose-an-electric-fan/
my 200 runs at 180-185. If I go up a big grade in 95 degree weather I run at 205. Flat freeway in 85 degree weather I run 185.
Ok, my friends, thanks for answer! I have only a question., why setting the ignition time from 6º BTDC ( this is the ral ignition time for my engine) to 10º or 12º BTDC make the engine run cooler?
The fuel today burns slower than the fuel that was available when the car was built. Advancing the ignition timing lets the engine burn the fuel more completely and quicker, so you get more power output. With more power you need less throttle for the same speed, so less heat is produced.
Ok, but you said me , in the last answer the following.....Try your timing at 10° BTC. This will help you run cooler! I don't know what fuel you have there, but try the timing increase, but set it back if it pings..... if my car is set at 6° BTDC and I move the point to 10° BTDC this is retard or advance the ignition point?
