Battery shut-off switch

Discussion in 'Drag Racing' started by MaverickDan, Sep 18, 2012.

  1. MaverickDan

    MaverickDan I wanna go fast!!!

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    I believe it's whenever the battery's moved to the trunk.
     
  2. MaverickDan

    MaverickDan I wanna go fast!!!

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    What continuous amp rating switch do I need? I'm guessing the higher the better?
     
  3. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    Wow! Try reading that rule book! Reading the "begats" in the Bible was easier to interpret than that rulebook!

    But, yeah, seems like only if it is moved. No speed or ET rating, like rollcages or helmets.

    Or "stop wearing sandals" and "stop wearing shorts" and that type of thing, that I usually got from my tech guy.
     
  4. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    So next time, I had no shoes, and no pants, and he was satisfied! :rofl2:
     
  5. olerodder

    olerodder Member

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    The 2012 rules state that any vehicle with the battery in the trunk MUST have
    a master cut-off.........and is Mandatory if you race at an NHRA sanctioned event..............NHRA is the key.

    8:4 MASTER CUTOFF
    Mandatory when battery is relocated, or as outlined in Class
    Requirements. An electrical power cutoff switch (one only) must be
    installed on the rearmost part of each vehicle and be easily


    General Regulations
    Section 20, page 34

    accessible from outside the car body. This cutoff switch must be
    connected to the


    positive side of the electrical system and must

    stop all electrical functions including magneto ignition. The off
    position must be clearly indicated with the word “OFF.” If switch is
    “push/pull” type, “push” must be the action for shutting off the
    electrical system, “pull” to turn it on. Any rods or cables used to
    activate the switch must be minimum 1/8-inch diameter. Plastic or
    keyed switches prohibited. Switches and/or controls must be

    located behind rear wheels on rear-engine dragsters
     
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2012
  6. Boss302maverick

    Boss302maverick Member

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    and the NHRA rule is if you shut the switch off the car must shut off
     
  7. olerodder

    olerodder Member

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    Yes, that rule has been around for almost as long as I have.
    I have a master kill switch that is within reach of my right arm(it's a lighted green switch just left of the voltmeter in the picture)................and have had for over 30 years................but the last NHRA race I was tech'd at the inspector never made me do a test..................just looked at and said good enough................sometimes I wonder where they get these guys.
     
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2012
  8. MNTony

    MNTony aka Godzirra

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    It's a good idea to have one if you are racing NHRA or not. I think of it as just one more thing keeping my butt out of the flames. Of course having said that, on the street most people wouldn't even know what it is. But this is the drag racing part of the forum so I would do it.

    The switches themselves are readily available through Jegs, Franks favorite store Summit, or you can even get them through NAPA or your local hot rod shop.

    They cost from $21 to over $150 if you feel the need to spend that much.

    As was said, make sure that your alternator wire runs through it or the car will not shut off when you flip the switch. A good tech guy will check for that.
     
  9. golden bullet

    golden bullet Member

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    you only need a switch if the battery is in the trunk et and speed has nothing to do with it.
     
  10. olerodder

    olerodder Member

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    I was just reading through some addendums for 2012 NHRA, and they are saying that if your car is in the 10.0 to 10.99...........and you are meeting or exceeding 135mph you must have a cut-off switch.
     
  11. MNTony

    MNTony aka Godzirra

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    Interesting. I wonder how many cars that fast actually have the battery mounted up front in the stock location? I imagine not very many, but they wouldn't have added that rule if they didn't run into it.

    Had you told me 15 years ago that there would be 'streetable' cars running in the 6's and 7's in the quarter mile I would have called you daft. But horsepower seems to come cheap these days!
     
  12. olerodder

    olerodder Member

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    I think the only cheap HP comes from a Turbo.....................I'm an old school guy and although I probably never break 145mph in the 1/4...................I'll stick with a carb until they put me in the ground.....................and on a carb'd motor aint nothin cheap about making HP...................................IMHO
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2012
  13. MNTony

    MNTony aka Godzirra

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    Based on my personal experience I can tell you that turbo's aren't the cheap horsepower many expect! :) And lucky me, on mine I have a carb to deal with as well. I will admit that the carb was less expensive than the equivalent fuel injection system. But then because of the E85 and the boost it would have really pushed the FI into the stratosphere with regard to cost.

    I do think that in many cases a huge shot of nitrous is probably a lot cheaper short term. Possibly a ticking time bomb for the motor that is not built for the power and long term the cost of the nitrous itself adds up. But it's not a huge entry fee. And the Vortec style superchargers are costly, but complete.

    The LS style motors and overhead cam motors really changed entry level horsepower. It was probably 10 years ago that a factory 400hp motor was insanely expensive (limited to supercars like the CTV). Now that same price point will bring you a 650hp car.

    Like you said, it's just opinions and I don't think that anyone is wrong. It just seems that when I was young it was only the dragsters and funny cars were running 6's. Now there are door slammers doing it. People don't realize what goes into building these land rockets, but it's being done now and it wasn't before.
     
  14. MaverickDan

    MaverickDan I wanna go fast!!!

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    How come you think turbos are cheap horsepower? I can say through my personal experience its was not cheap, also why would it be any different then a supercharger? Nitrous is probably the cheapest power adder, but wouldn't know as I have never used it.
     
  15. olerodder

    olerodder Member

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    What I meant to say is "that I will probably never break 145mph in the 1/4", but with that said it has always been expensive to make HP, going back to the 70's good parts cost a fortune, like roller cams, steel cranks, stoker cranks, good rods..........and there were only a few people building them, and all you had were factory blocks and heads..............and the first motor in my SS/IA Camaro(had it built by Hatch&Park in 74).............in todays money it would cost $35k.............the motor was stock @ 275hp as factored by NHRA.
    You know back in the day us class racers didn't pay that much attention to the very upper classes...........mainly because we were always working on the car for the next round, and that those classes were so insanely out of our reach you really had a disconnect.
    I have a friend with a Pro-Mod car (I have put the car on here before) and he just broke into the high 5's...................now with that said, the motor alone is over $100k.................and if they break they just don't have a spare one sitting around to put in it's place...................they only run selected races and they have fun.............and for me it's not about HP/TQ (ofcourse you always want more), but it's about the fun.....................I just wish a lot of the younger guys could be transported back to a time when race parts were hard to get and very expensive and everyone..............even your fearest competitor would help in a pinch...................................for me, those were the glory days of racing...........................Oh yes, and on race weekends the stands were packed with people....at every race!
     

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