My 71 Maverick Grabber Build.....

I recieved my AJE stuff this week, I'm concerned about front track width also. The spindles are smaller than my stock ones so I can't put my aerospace hubs on to check track width. Can anyone tell me the AJE track width compared to stock, is it narrower or wider or the same as stock. Mine is around 49 1/2 with the adjustable rod ends screwed all the way in, before I tore my front end a part my track width was 58 1/4 with weld 3 1/2 rims and 1.75 back spacing.The spindle mount also came with a different backing plate for someone's calipers, I just wanted them stock so I could bolt up my aerospace brakes. I'm also completely removing my shock towers and mounting the upper strut mount to a strut tube

l be giving Jim a call, thanks for any help.

Craig

 

Just a question if you don't mind.
What made the decission for you to buy AJE vs RC or one of the other kits?
Thanks,
John

 

Struts, lighter , more room for headers. They also changed the camber angle for me from 20 degrees to 12. I removed the shock towers so the struts are more upright, lots more room easier to work on. Are the others a-arm type?

 

I'll check the track width tomorrow.....

 

Ok thanks, also my '72 stock spindles measure 1 3/8 (inside bearing) the AJE ones came with 1 1/4. The back plates did not have the stock bolt pattern, they are like a universal plate with 3 different patterns. I was hoping they have worked out there problems over the years, I guess not yet. I'll look through your post for maybe photo's of the spindles and back plates. I did talk to Jim today and he said send them back along with a hub and caliper brake mounting plate, I'll keep my fingers crossed.

Thanks

Craig

 

Hey Frank I was just reading pages 96,97,98. I first see I'm missing those square bearing blocks on the caster camber plates, I was wondering what those 4 holes were for. If my track is to wide for me, I think I my shorten the K-member first. I have a 1/2 in. in the slots each side, I thought I would leave my A-arms as long as possible. Your thoughts on shorting the K-member?

Thanks

 

The bearing blocks are where the strut mounts in..... The problem with shortening the k-member is the pivot point of the control arms and inner tie rods need to be as close as possible the same width for proper geometry.....

My control arms are right at 11.5" from the center of the ball joint to the center of the front eye..... My front wheels are 15"x4" with a 2.25"back space, 165/80R15 front tires..... The front track width is 61" across the outside of the tires.....

 

I went down this morning with the intent of working on the pass side door..... I cut the rust out, made repair panels, welded them in and then started working on the lower half of the door dents..... This is where it all went bad, after f!#%$*g up the lower panel I threw the door out..... I am really over the whole body work thing.....

Anybody want to buy a partially done Maverick?????

 

Sorry but I think your maverick is priceless just be a little more patient. perhaps you need somebody do the bodywork for you. I hope not to bother you with this comment. You inspire a lot of people (including me). I have read in this place " do or dont do, there is no try " and you are doing a great job. keep going


best regards

 

Some days it just don't work....

 

Hey frank you are doing an amazing job. As hard as you been working maybe it's best to take a brake from it and not even think about it for a few days. Approach it with a clear head. Best of luck. I owe you a six pack for the entertainment you've provided me already.

 

Don't stop now! Your work is amazing and the car looks awesome! You should be able to see the light at the end of the tunnel with respect to the body work. Plus I am learning a lot from following your progress.

 

Been there, sorry to hear someone else is going through the same feelings i have had several times, i stink at body work and i accept it, no biggie, i just keep going till the panel turns out straight or i take my last breath.

My best advice to you would be to not try to fix the door your upset about, just get one off ebay now. I messed up two RF fenders ( one should have been in the scrap heap before i attempted to fix it ) cost me 350 for a good one, wish i had bought it a year ago, car would be done if i had.

 

Frank, I have a pair of rust free doors (well some surface rust) they are early doors... If you want to make a trip up to Ocala you can have them for free... You've come to far to stop now... Send me a PM if you want them....
Ken..

 

Now that is a gracious offer! Way to go.