Huh, maybe the clear you used wasn't compatable with the silver. You've got some luck there! I also think the last post by groberts101 is valid.
I missed that post! On my phone and didn't see it..makes total sense..I think I will be trying a new brand of paint like Joe dirt had mentioned and give that a shot.. I also think like groberts said warming it up in a hot water bath and shaking for extended periods will be a must for any new aerosol paints I use. I'm tired of messing with this and I'd rather paint it once, be safe and it's done.
Of course this is true to a degree and even I had similar concerns at first too. But I will say that I've never had issue with the temp's that a home water heater will reach in many years of doing it(more than 20 now). And not to mention that it starts cooling off right away, so the contents of the can never actually really reach the waters temperature in the end anyways. Even when we(my other idiot friends and I) were young and stupid.. we used to throw them in the fire just to see the light show they created. Even then it takes a little bit to even get them to pop. As for the effects from warming these things? It has many benefits. Allows for better dispersion/mixing of settled components. Aids spray pattern due to reduced viscosity of warmer mix and the likely improved pressure for better atomization. Aids leveling(reduced orange peel) due to reduced viscosity/better atomization of warmer mix. Allows for thicker coats due to increasing solvent flash/reduced flash time. Reduces runs to some degree.. but it can add variable if used too heavily due to the aforementioned lowered viscosity. Faster cures. Faster recoats. Reduced surface contamination likelyhood due to quicker "sets". If used correctly.. the warming of spary paint can improve the final product to the point that some will not even know it's spray paint even if they go over it with a fine tuned eye. Won't ever last as long as regular catalyzed product.. but from a "looks" standpoint it certainly helps. Old painters trick that I just copied from some other smart painter I knew years ago, is all. It works so well.. that I'll never go back to regular shake and spray techniques again. PS. you're likely right about the possible incompatability issue. Another possibility is that the recoat window was not adhered to either. Many products need to be recoated in the next 4 hours.. or so.. and then extended to more than 72(which varies with temp/humidity as well) for recoat time. Otherwise the solvents in the new coat will reactivate the solids in the previous coats to cause that effect. Which then need to be stripped and removed for long term survival of the finished coatings. Since I do this stuff for a living.. I should be able to say that I've never made these same mistakes. But I'd be lying my ass off if I did and it still happens to the pro's on ocassion. In that case.. a respirator, rubber gloves and Acetone are your best friends.
I was referring to someone putting their spray can in a pot of water on the stove and boiling it. You never know what people will try when they "read into" someone elses suggestion.
