My Comet doesn't have a rear sway bar. So is he going to include some instructions on how to do this? Some of us are still in the learning stages. I have been there for a while now.
There are instructions on this site if he does not... but I'd like to believe it does. Couldnt hurt... or could it. It might just exacerbate the problem with the rear end skipping. I wouldnt use a locker at all if going around corners is in your plans.
Looks like we may have our 10 buyers lined up for the front bar. I still have a couple Maybe listed below. In reading a couple of the other threads on here regarding the rear sway bar, its come to my attention that the size rear sway bar would also depend on your rear spring rate. Have you upgraded to stiffer spring in the rear or not? If so, then the 3/4 bar might be all you need. Remember... the stiffer the rear end is, the more tail happy it will be. So knowing that info, if you want a rear bar, you may have to decide on what size you want to go with for a package deal. I'll find out more tomorrow about other sizes available. GrabberGT Schroensr 71Mavrk (maybe) Bryant GRoberts101 Fastback86 Mashori Bryant-friend (maybe) Streetrod77 Jayman bdmav
i know the rear sway bar is an unexpected add on for this deal and more work, but it is appreciated. i wonder if their is a way that the rear bar can have the 3 or even just 2 adjustment mounting ends built into it? i was looking at one of the cars in my shop friday and if frame bracket was made with a tab that protruded down with 3 holes in it, then the sway bar has 3 corresponding holes, it should be doable.
I don't really understand all the hubub about needing a stiffer bar on the rear with such a short and light rearend on these cars. On a full sized car with a longer tail?.. no doubt. Or if you had greater engine setback?.. maybe. A couple of things to ponder in regard to the slight increase in this front bars thickness. This larger bar will not be like night and day if you already have a 1" bar installed on your car.. but can make a huge difference if you're coming from stock size. A 1/8th inch change will not rock your world and should only be considered as "fine tuning". Or if you were moving from a hollow to solid design. having a stiffer sprung rear can add additional impact from a larger front bar.. but the negative impact is greatest when the rear end is sitting high in the air to give that "shackled look" and not NEARLY as much for cars that have been lowered. However.. any car that has softer springs which has been lowered WILL without a doubt toss its ass up in the air under hard braking and/or abrupt diectional transitions when installing a larger bar up front. In that case ANY rear bar acts as a type of suspension limiter to keep the tail flatter and more controllable. Moving to a larger bar on the rear has FAR less impact than the front does as a result of that tendency and far less weight imposing stress back there in the first place. Those of you who are currently using lowering blocks on the rear may have rear bar end link/mounting location "offset issues" and should consider mid-eye/reverse eye leafs instead of larger block style bandaids. CG, roll center will improve and rear steer issues will be reduced as a result. Again. The golden rules for suspension design on a street car is typically.. softer springs with stiffer bars.. or stiffer springs with softer bars. Street AND track cars(such as GrabberGT's) can certianly combine both aspects but there will be a limit for what's going to keep tires planted and in control on typically maintained streets.. and you can definately go too far..especially on stock unibody type chassis's. Anyone who has ever had a dedicated track car squirm around public roads at speed while its stiff/limited travel trackbred suspension encounters bumpy and irregular roads will tell you straight up that a car like that can actually become quite dangerous when taken out of its intended environment. Anywho.. that's what I learned on my summer vacation this year. lol
Dude... that there is golden. LOL Actually its all great info and TRUE. OK... Going back to the garage. These 4.11 gears arent going to install themselves.
OK... Got more info about the bars. Per the Engineering dept at Addco, the largest bar they would recomend for the rear with the 1-1/8 is 7/8. 3/4 would likely do just fine but you have to look at all the factors when making the decision. Like what rear springs are you running. Are they stiffer than stock or the old worn out stock bars. What other traction aids do you have, bushings, etc... The Prices are as such: Front bar price came down from 255 to 209.00 Rear 7/8 - 175.81 Rear 3/4 - 158.75 To make either of those adjustable, we would have to decide which we want made and come up with a minimum of 10 orders for it. The price would be ~20.00 more per bar. What I need to know now is, are we all still on board for at least the front bar? Here is the list of names again: GrabberGT Schroensr 71Mavrk Bryant GRoberts101 Fastback86 Mashori Bryant-friend Streetrod77 Jayman bdmav
I'm in for the front and rear. Anybody have pics of how the rear bar mounts? Need some sorta reference.
I'm down for a front bar. Not sure If I would need an adjustable one but I'll take it that's what everyone else is doing.
