I see everyone has different ideas and are apparently happy with their oil choice and engine performance, unless one has a wild flat tappet cam with high spring pressures, it's hard to mess up with today's oils... As a general rule most of us old skool guys tend to go a little thick on oil, unless you are running oil temps over 230*F or have wide bearing clearances, all the thick oils do is suck up HP... A xW-40 is plenty for about any street vehicle and most will be fine on a 5W-30...
I use Pennzoil " high mileage " 10w-40. It gets hot here in the summer, so I feel 10w-30 is just a shade too thin!
I've used many top line oils through the years(and yes they are packaged quite differently than "regular oils").. but lately(for performance applications) I only use Amsoil(the Zrod is really good stuff).. Royal Purple HPS in varyious viscosities.. Mobile 1 synthetic in 15/50.. or good old fashioned Valvoline VR1 Racing oil due to higher ZDDP levels than most all others. Amsoil is my prefered oil.. but my Amsoil rep is a bit of a drive and spendier than most.. so I substitute any of the above based on local stocks and sale prices at any given time. All have been used by myself or friends with flat cams having spring rates of more than 400-500 lbs/in without issue.
Depends on what you want to spend I guess. Royal purple wont make my street car any faster and it wont effect longevity of my mild roller 5.0 at a 1-2000miles a year. I change my oil in the Spring and Fall. Waste of money for myself to run something like royal purple. Depends on your own driving conditions,mileage etc.
Not reading all the posts. Just answering the question... Too many oils, too many opinions, and in my opinion "any oil is better than NO oil!" In the maverick, I use Motorcraft Synthetic Blend 10w30. Cheap, good oil. I swap in a quart of lucas so it sticks to everything.
X 2 on this Mine doesn't get out enough to spend the big bucks on the fancy stuff. It's been "together" now and doing it's job for 9 years now.
BEWARE I used to ad it.. but I atribute it to the demise of my Perkins 50 HP diesel. THink of that stuff as a solvent, for that is what it is. Use it to unstick things and as a penetrating "liquid wrench" . Maybe put some in your gas.. or not. It will thin down your oil.. IT's like WD40... which is 99% solvent and 1% lubricant molybdinum. But people think WD40 is a lubricant and its not. Dont do it.
That's the truth... Oil thickness at operating temp(generally 40 to 100C*) is rated in cSt, reports I've seen MMO is around 2.5 cST @ 100*C... To put that in perspective, a xW-30 oil is required to have a 100C* cSt between 9.3 & 12.5 to be in grade... I believe the max MMO recommended as oil additive is 20%, which would reduce a 10 cSt 30w to around 7.5 cSt which is in the middle of the 20 weight oils(actually I haven't seen any xW-20 with below approx 8.2 cSt, although the minimum is 5.6 cSt)... Basically you're going to drop a grade or more when using the product... For more on oils... http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/
Thanks for the info on MMO guys! That is really good to know. I thought it might be a good idea to add a Qt. of it to my oil(regular oil not synth.) when doing an oil change, but I will pass.
I remember when MMO was used to flush the engine when you changed the oil. It was added and the engine was to be idled until hot. I would not use it mixed in the oil to drive the car. I do use it for penetrating oil and it is a great bore cleaner for guns! Like " KC " said, it is mostly solvent not lubricant!
oil Valvoline VR1 Racing oil, higher ZDDP levels as noted above. Used it in all my FE motors with flat tappet cams and in the Mav roller motor. Thinking of adding an oil cooler this year.
Is it true that synthetic oil is stickier than regular oil and sticks to the parts better? I was told that when the car is sitting regular oil just eventually drips off, but synthetic sticks to the parts so everything stays lubed and the vehicle is not being started "dry".