THIS sounds awesome. of course i would have to do this myself. you know for the experience not because im cheap hahaha.
hey im having trouble finding that carb spacer. do you happen to know if it has a specific title that i can search for?
I did a quick search and didn't find it. The spacer I bought had a kickout on the one side, and I had it around 1994 or so. It wasn't labelled as being specifically for this application, but looking at it, you know this is what they had in mind. It was aluminum and I do believe it was Mr. Gasket, but it may have been some other brand. What I did find was a picture with a pretty ordinary carb spacer on the manifold, and it was covering the slot ... just barely ... Here is another picture ... look at the marks where the spacer was ... It covered it by a narrow margin. Just know that if that didn't seal, that would be a vacuum leak.
He'll need a solid aftermarket spacer to cover that hole. The factory PCV spacer (the ones' used on the 60's manifolds) will not work without another solid spacer or plate between the manifold and the spacer. Or find the 80's spacer for that intake (which would be an EGR spacer)
This combination does not work together. You have no EGR valve to regulate the exhaust gases entering the intake. That is a PCV spacer you're using here.
stuff a carboard blocker down into the hole and fill it with jb weld. Then do as baddad suggests and you'll be golden. I'd also recommend using a phenolic type to cut some heat out of the carb too.
yeah that is a really narrow margin. so if i am to understand this correctly i should use a phenolic spacer. i would be unable to use an egr spacer because i do not have an egr valve. and it would be ok if i blocked it off with cardboard and jb weld. this may sound dumb, but could you describe how i block it with cardboard? do i try to remove the cardboard through the side after i use the jb weld?
NO....NO....NO.... JB Weld will not work for more than about a 1/2 a mile. The cardboard will incinerate first speeding up the process. Too much heat. Ask me how I know ....
Ditto, cardboard in an exhaust gas passage ? Waste of time. JB weld may only last temporarily exposed to exhaust gases. A phenolic spacer that fully covers the slot may be the best bet, or a solid aluminum spacer better yet, but you'll need a gasket that'll withstand the exhaust gas under it. It might be better to insert stainless steel shims at the head port openings on either side to block it off.
LOL.. talk about a loss in translation. It's like this. The cardboard is only intended as a quick backer(or blocker if you prefer) to prevent the jbweld from slowly falling away into the passage way too far and not allowing proper plug build. So the cardboard can burn away and makes no difference at all once it's cured. Use tin if you are that worried about it getting charred up and sucked out the exhaust.. but I'd rather have something that's intended to disappear rather than a piece of tin that could potentially drop into the valve seat area at low rpm. As for JB Weld being effective at those "ultra high 1,300 degree temps"?.. LOL.. that area of the intake won't get nearly that hot. And maybe just think about it for a second.. what would those sorta temps do to the manifold and carb/gasket if they actually got that hot? JBWeld can stand more than 500 degrees.. and if it's applied thick enough?.. good luck burning it out in "1 1/2 miles down the road". I've done it to several manifolds through the years(I still have one I ran for more than 3 years out in the shop somewhere with the plug fully intact).. based on input from others who've also done it with great success too.. and even my work vans 4.3 Vortec ran it(JB welded manifold EGR port) for more than 2 years until I finally deleted the valve/tube when I made custom headers for it. I've also ran the phenolic spacers on manifolds that I didn't want to pull off right away to do the gasket blocks on.. and the JB Weld plugs work just fine there too. If it was as hot as you guys seem to think it is?.. the spacer and gasket would have failed in short time. They did not and a couple of buddies ran around for years like that. But if the thought of using measly 500 degree metal impregnated putty gives you the willies?.. there's a multitude of other ways to get the job done too. Just a few off the top of my head would be.. filling the port with molten aluminum/zinc(if you're going to all that trouble.. you'd actually be better off filling the crossover passages in each heads exhaust port itself as that can help exhaust flow on those particular ports and give you more power).. pack it full of aluminum foil(some of the old racers used to do that even in the heads crossover port itself!).. use hi-temp silicone(you still need a backer to make a solid/deep plug).. hi-temp epoxies(I've used the "sorta pricey" Manley porcelainized epoxy and the EXPENSIVE Devcon stuuf too).. and even exhaust repair putty. Then there's the gaskets themselves. Just buy some better gaskets with plugs built into them.. or the ones made without punched crossover holes which will last quite a while too even though they can eventually burn through(they won't burn through if you plug the manifolds entry on both sides. The old timers trick before we had those "heat riser blockoff" type gaskets was to simply snip a chunk off a pop can(I've also used the brass sheet stock from a hobby store too but it's overkill and wasted cash) to glue under the gasket during install. Stopping the corssover flow at that junction is going to give the most power gain(from the cooler intake charge) but even then.. I usually use the JB Weld at the intakes carb flange to give a nice smooth gasket seal(via slightly over-filling and sanding flush). So, there really is not perfect way to do this mod.. but blocking off the gaskets themselves is the quickest.
This is exactly why I would not use JB Weld. If that piece of tin could possibly get loose and be sucked into the valve seat area, then the same goes for a chunk of "baked to rock hard" piece of JB Weld.
oh wow. thats a lot. so i could glue a piece of aluminum can to the gasket in between a phenolic spacer(on top or on bottom of the gasket? what kind of glue do i use?)? and also stuff the holes on the side with foil. could i cover the ends with the jb weld over the foil and sand it? can i use several of those methods in conjunction with each other? what is the safest way? what is the most durable and reliable way? thats a lot of questions.
I did say "ask me how I know", didn't I ... I hammered out a piece of sheet metal to fit the slot, knocked it down about a 1/4 inch into there, filled it with JB Weld. The car ran GREAT for just about a half a mile ... BIG TIME FAIL .... barely got the car home under its own power. The JB had burnt through on one side and it was a huge vacuum leak. So... I will repeat myself ..... NO, NO, and NO! Do not try to plug that with JB Weld, even with a sheet metal backer remaining in place. You are asking for trouble.
