Yes, you can use the single stage powervalve. As for the primary side, you need the cutout for the accellerator pump, you can cut it out of the gasket itself if need be.
the plate is stuck on there. i took the photo before i removed it. at first i thought the plate was missing, but upon further review i saw that it was just really well hidden. also, i forgot to take a photo of the secondary metering body. the one with the wierd screws in it.
Now you're confusing things. There is no metering body, only a metering plate (on the secondary side) You'll need the matching screw driver to remove those hourglass screws. As for the primary side gasket, look at the backside of the primary metering block, you should see why the gasket has that cutout. If I remember correctly, the metering block has an o ringed protrusion that fits into the throttle body. Remember, this is an emissions carb you're dealing with here, it's got a few different parts vs most Holleys. Personally, I think you'd have been better off leaving this one alone and getting something newer to use. You can pick up barely used Holley's for $100-150 that many times are ready to go as is. Or at least only need to change the powervalve and the accellerator pump diaphram to get em going. I've done quite a few like this.
on the secondary side, i got 2 plates out. the really thin one and the one with the hourglass screws that is like a centimeter thick. i got this thing for $70. i was an un informerd buyer. i had no idea there were carbs that were even set up for emissions. i didnt know that they could do that hahaha
does a gasket go in between the two? also, it didnt come witht he ribbons for the throttle shaft, is it possible to buy those separate or will i have to buy another kit
Yea, there's a thin gasket between the plate and it's backing plate, that should have been in the kit (if it's for a 4160 carb) Ribbons ? You've got me there.
Those are Throttle shaft bushings, There are none in a new Holley. Those that need them usually are really bad off and I avoid rebuilding them. Or in one case I bought a new base plate assembly, but that was to replace a broken base plate.
most newer Holleys have them and if your throttle shafts are already notched for them.. then you'll surely want to use them(be sure to use vaseline or grease and be careful when reinstalling them to avoid dislocating/sliding out of the groove during reassembly). A few of mine have them too.
i noticed the dislocation thing when i was putting in the secondary rod. i cant find them for sale anywhere. this question is less important, but i am still curious Also, how can i tell how old my carb is? i cant find any straight answers on the net. i know the number under the part number is the date code, but they decided to use a 4 digit system where the first 3 numbers in the day and the 4th is the year. why not a 5 digit date code
It's a 6919.............it's probably 35+ years old. And if you're going so far rebuilding as to have to change the throttle shaft bushings, then you need to also remember to "stake" the butterfly screws to make sure they don't loosen and fall into the intake later on.
Damn that's old haha. What is "staking"? How do I stake the butterfly screws? The throttle shaft has the channels for the bearings like the secondary rod. But does the throttle shaft need them? Are they necessary?
Don't know, I've never had to change them. I steer clear of old Holleys like that. I learned a long time ago, that they're more trouble than they're worth. Staking the screws is a method of buggering up the threads on the backside of the screws to keep em from working loose. You'll see what I'm talking about when you try to remove the butterfly screws.
