Just bought some new doors and they have a lot of rock chips which has surface rust and won't sand out.. Does the spray can stuff that says it's has converted the stuff once it's turned black? I think the brand at the store is made by bondo... I've never used any of this before and after my car is painted this time I dont plan on touching the body for 10 years unless I crash it, I'm tired of the body work on this car.
I've had pretty good luck with the rust destroyer at the shop. I had quite a few rough spots on a 59 thunderbird that sat in san fransisco for at least 10 or 15 years. I've been using the stuff for a few years now without any problems.
not trying to be a smartass.. but why don't you just spray an ospho based solution onto the surface to get rid of it.. istead of trying to convert it? If you can't do that then yes.. the converters do work. BUT.. the sealers used in may products are not all that great and can fail eventually causing oxygen exposure/further rust/piant and primer failures down the road. So, be damned sure to use a good epoxy primer to seal everything up after the converter does its conversion thing. I used some rustoleum stuff years ago when all that stuff started to hit the market(not necessarily the best brand but it was free so I tested it) and was amazed that a poorly sandblasted(purposely done to test the product) portion of my truck bed stayed sealed quite well despite not being primed or topcoated along with the rest of it. Went almost 3 years before the bare converter/sealer started letting pinholes of rust show through again. I also used some on a fmily members old POS chevy cavalier and it was also left unprimed too and the damned thing kept rusting everywhere.. but the converted/sealed area! lol I'm of the opinion that if it can't be completely removed?.. then convert it first before sealing it up. because full encapsulation by even the best primers will still sometimes trap enough oxygen around the remaining rust particles to continue its growth in the future. A top notch industrial epoxy might not ever let yo see it in your lifetime.. but it's certainly still lurking underneath there. If you can't remove it.. convert it.
Yep.. But the chevelle needed a ton less work so I don't mind that much when I work on it I've looked for that ospho stuff and could never find it anywhere.. Once it would be converted it would be epoxy primed. Trying to get the comet done before may 1st.
any autobody, hardware, autoparts store will be able to set you up with what you need here. Most will usually have several cleaners(that also contain phosphoric acids) and rust converters in stock too.
There's a shelf full of rust converters and what not but no oshpo.. So should the I be looking for a phosphoric acid based treatment? Btw you have to remember most of the people there get minimum wage and have absolutely no idea what I'm talking about, they show up just to collect a paycheck.
lol.. tell me about it. That's why I always have them physically check stock even if I'm only driving 2 blocks to pick up the parts. IIRC.. the term "ospho" is just a generic term many still use for products containing phosphoric acid in varying concentrations. There are TONS of various products out there as you mentioned and price will be a good indicator of acid content. RustMort is another good one too. You could also use muriatic acid from the home improvement stores.. BUT.. it is nasty stuff to work with and will burn you.. and your lungs.. so proper precautions should be taken when working with any of these acid based products. Many of these products will also dry out quickly which makes them slower to do a good job. An old painter trick was to add brown sugar.. I know it sounds silly.. but it works to keep them from drying out and act as surfactants to keep them clinging better. If using on vertical surfaces.. you might be better off with naval jelly(which also has phosphoric acid too). Also rememeber that rinsing with liberal amounts of water can cause flash rusting and further complicate matters too. I generally just wipe off the excess with denatured alcohol or acetone and sand thouroghly before final wipedown and sealer application.
I have the doors back off the car and layed on a bench so that will make it easier to apply.. I will then wipe down with acetone and sand then prime..hopefully this stuff doesn't take too long to kill/ get rid of the rust
it's like magic.. and if you keep it wet?.. it will dissolve right before your eyes(which you'll also want to keep out of the fumes). You can also lay paper towels over the treated areas for prolonging wet applications too. PS. oops.. almost forgot.. DO NOT GET IT ON GLASS!!!!.. since it will permanently etch it. Better to avoid contact with anything of value for that matter. Even door knobs going back into the house. Don't ask me how I know that.
haha ok..ill wear gloves and what not..open the bay door...and ill use paper towels to keep it wet and follow the directions from there..i think ill use the spray can stuff on the inside of the doors.
honestly i was going to buy one...but i forgot to before i started all this lol, now im too close to being at the end.. i purchased one this morning at the store..made by proform..says brush like 3 or 4 coats allow to dry 6 hours, wipe and ready to fill/prime...we will see if it works in a few months when the paint starts to bubble on my doors lol.
