Scooper's R&C power rack and pinion Mustang II "type" install.

Yes, the big semi flat part. The factory front jackingmpoint, is just rear of the torque box, on the rocker ( there is a notch) for when you use the factory provided jack. Did the rotors come wit any instructions?

 

When I looked at the site with some of those rotors they did not look side specific to me. I would think they would be IF the grooves are different in direction. If they are supposed to be directional maybe you got two of the same side?
I have been wondering if there is any sort of bump stop on these set ups.. I will be calling Tom over at Street Rod Engineering to ask him. I am concerned that the shocks could get damaged if the suspension is allowed to suspend past the limits of the shock shaft travel. Raising the vehicle at the factory location may not be good. The only thing wrong in raising the suspension anywhere under the lower A frame is that it will get scratched in my opinion. Maybe that's why they left those shock tabs squared instead of making them round..

 

So Tom says that the shock is what limits the travel when lifting from the side. I personaly don't like that..

 

Yes, without the shock, those balls are what stops the travel and they are bent all the way to their extreme. That is why I put the wheels on and let the weight keep them from over-extending.

 

I guess I will see if it's possible for me to weld a plate across the bottom of the lower shock tabs on mine.. That will tie them together and give me a lifting point at the wheel.

 

If you weld a plate across, then you close up the hole that you shove your shocks in during installation.

This was why i wantyed to originally leave the strut brace

 

Hmmm.. I guess I will have to look at it closer when I get mine..

 

xsgvjdhffgvshdfasjfsgfakg. i am so damn jealous...

 

Here is a picture from underneath, sorta. Difficult shot to get with a cell phone.

The shock slides up from underneath, then bolts in at the top, and another bolt goes from tab to tab horizontally.

 

when installing my setup, I made a 1"sq. tubing brace to mimic the installed shock. it held everything together while I installed the rest of the parts...

 

Got the engine in today. Had to move the transmission out of the way, because the oil pan hugs the rack tightly, and once it is lowered into place, there is very little room to move the engine around.

First I had to flip the engine to mount my new extra-capacity Canton oil pan and all the stuff for that. Need to figure out where I want to mount the dipstick after headers go in.

Also, the stock engine mount bolts are too long by about 3/8" and bottom out before they are snug to the mount bracket.

Engine in did not drop the front very much. I know it will drop some more when I move it but still, it is very high. At this point I need to determine if I want to cut the springs or buy 2" drop spindles.

Now I will put in that driver side header and fab up the steering linkage to make sure everything clears.

Haven't decided if I want to put the C4 back in or put in an AOD I have access to.

Done for today. Very humid, and I don't like working in wet clothes. Also, got called in to work for an emergency at 3 pm, so getting cleaned up and ready to go in.

 

Looks Awesome!!!!

 

Update. Driver side header still won't go in. Going to look into some shorties.

 

Please wait until everything else is finished. I have the standard spindles with the (coilover) adjustment brackets jacked up as high as they'll go and it sits just right. If I had drop spindles, it wouldn't be drivable. I know you clip is different, but better to not over-do and have no way out...

 

I will drive it a bit before I cut or swap spindles.

But, every step of this project has had a glitch.

Currently, I cannot identify a set of headers, shortie or full length, that will fit without having to jack up the engine. Same problem I had with shock towers in.