Automatics are ok, but a manual is definitely more fun. I wouldn't have it any other way. I've got a close ratio toploader out of a 65 mustang. A 28 Spline output is plenty strong for what I have, and I would bet the same for 95% of the cars on this forum. If you had any doubt, you could get a big in big out toploader and go through the work to put it behind a small block. You're going to have to likely go well out of your way to destroy a toploader, we have lightweight cars. The other nice thing about a toploader is anyone that can wrench on their car should be able to rebuild it themselves. It's not overly complex, nor does it require any special tools to rebuild like an automatic would. You should be able to put a small block toploader in your car for under $2500. And I would say that is with mostly new parts. If you find some deals I think you could do it for less. $500 - $700 toploader that may not even need a rebuild $200 rebuild kit $400 shifter $400 lakewood bell $400 clutch $350 steel flywheel
I doubt a top loader would stand up to 1000HP at the wheels, plus you would have to use a dual disc clutch setup which is going to set you back a lot more than $400....................................I think you missed the part about 1000HP+ motor.
To ole rodder,I feel for you,I will be 57 in june.I want to have some fun while still can.Going to start with a mild 351,big spline top loader with David Kee internals,2.90 first gear.Car will only weigh 2400,going to run a 4.56 out out back,car should be pretty quick.Also as you know,a lighter car is easier on parts,Andy`s car weighs 3100 and he broke his Jerico twice last yr.My goal a yr or 2 down the road is to build a 408 like you have and try to get a good deal on a Liberty.Kevin Pegg has one in his car,82 Merc. Capri 800hp 434 Windsor,runs 5.5 in the 1/8 with the Gear Jammers.It is an expensive transmission but Kevin said it is virtually unbreakable,he won the championship last yr.They don`t allow you to run the lenco,so the liberty is the next best thing.I will not make it to the track this yr,do not have quite enough money to finish my car,but next yr should be fun.
I've got 10 years on you but thought you were a lot younger for some reason. At least I've got a removable steering wheel now so it will make getting in and out of the car much easier that it was before with the fixed place wheel........ and I don't need my left leg to do anything..............since I put 4whl disc brakes I won't have to use both legs/feet on the brake pedal like I did with the all drum setup. Sounds like you are headed in about the same direction I am now, although most of my motor components in the 408 are going on 20 years old including the heads. I've got 4.56's out back on a very dated NHRA B/SM ladder bar setup....................if I keep the car past next season I'll probably go 4 link and ditch the leaf springs. When I turned the 9.801 the car with me was almost 3400lbs................I've lightened the car about as much as I can and may get down to 3000/3100, but with metal tubs/rear fire wall/heavy square tubing chassis it's difficult to get below 3000lb. If someone hadn't have shaved the towers I'd be back running a SM class with a little smaller CI motor.
All I saw stated was a motor somewhere in the neighborhood of 1000 hp. There are guys getting 600 hp to the dragstrip on small block toploaders. The other thing is how hard a person is on parts. A purpose built drag car is one thing, but how many people are going to beat the everlasting hell out of a street cruise/ strip car? Especially considering how much nicer the street car might be built.
I do intend to fix the car up to be a really nice street car BUT you had better believe when I pull up to the line at the track all of that goes out the window and Im going to flinstone the hell out of my car
I want my knees to knockin not shakin after a pass on the track lol all while being able to cruise to the local show or just cruising if I have some extra money to burn
1000hp on the street calls for a substantial investment in the tranny if you are ever going to hit the dragstrip and expect it to live. Years ago I ran a Toploader on the street but I got tired of replacing broken parts every other trip to the track and that was with a 500hp 408 windsor. I switched to a built C-4 and that was much better, but the 5000 stall was kinda tough on street driving. Today I'm running 930 hp on the street and I invested in a bulletproof trans, the JW 2-speed. I don't call it a powerglide because it doesn't have a GM part in it. And converter technology is way better today, I have 4800 stall at the track but part-throttle stall of only 2000 making street driving great. The JW I bought is rated for 1500hp giving you plenty of cushion even if you eclipse 1000hp.
I agree 100%. Compromises must be made. If you want a car that can actually hook and launch 1,000 horsepower.. it'll cost you in.. bank and streetability. At that power level.. a good chassis will easily exceed the cost of the motor. That's the biggest issue with horsepower madness.. it quickly snowball's into $40,000 dollars. Really refined dual purpose cars ain't cheap. My input is this. Build the car, including the transmission, to handle as close to the engines power level as you can afford. Then undergear it.. use decent sticky street tires.. leave the line with slight restraint(as if you don't want to break it).. and make up your time on the big end like all the other "turbo street" guys do. Something like mid tens with 150mph trap speeds.
Are you talking about 1k on a small block ford? I can't wait to see it or hear about it. If you can afford such a power plant then you could pay someone to alter or modify your car or chassis to accept it and any trans you choose. Reverse manuel shift means just that. More positive shift and manuel only sucks to drive on the street. Don't believe everything you see on TV
I use a JW Ultra Bell and just had mine recert'd.................they do make good products. JW and Mike's do make some great 2spd transmissions. The JW's SFI Ultra Case is fantastic......................but when I refreshened my Vasco Glide I just didn't want to spend the extra $1k for the case..............but it would be well worth it in a high HP motor................I think the case is cert'd for 5 years. Also, both JW and Mike's dyno test every transmission before it goes out the door................................So, you are talking closer to $7k for a transmission like the JW Glide or Mike's Monster Glide.............with flex plate and converter. So, we've been talking about the motor and transmission.............what are you doing to the chassis to be able to plant this power on the street/strip??????
I havent gotten anywhere near that far yet. I have talks and a very basic plan with a rear end shop for a 9" rear end with 35 spline axles I think he was recommending atleast a 4.11 gear heavier bearings and shortened to the width I need (mini tub) oh and he recommended a full spool he told me I could use the 8.8 I had originally planed to use (original build was aimed at 500hp or less) but he didnt think it would hold up very long. I know Ill need sub frame connectors and Im not sure exactly what to do about springs. I figure I need to get a good four link set up with some coil overs I figured I would talk to a chassis fabrication shop when I got closer to that point. I dont figure the car to be done for YEARS to come but I keep saying next summer to keep the deadline in sight. it helps me stay motivated to keep spending. lol thank fully the machine shop I work with now is letting me give them money here and there as often as I can. I try to give them atleast $100 a week then every now and then I go in with some extra money to help knock the bill down a little faster. like recently I gave them $300 at the end of april and just the other day I gave them the last $600 I owed on the AFR heads so I try to give them anything extra I can as often as I can. hopefully the other shops will see my track record from the machine shop and work with me like that too. no work been done yet so theyre more or less just saving my money for me until its just about paid off then theyll start to get it all assembled and be ready by time its paid for
the cushion is how Ive been building everything. I have kept that in mind since the very beginning. this is going to be a 1 off car since Im FAR from rich and cant afford to break it. atleast not right away Im assuming something will break Im just hoping not for a long time when the car is done I dont intend to try and compete for the national title or anything like that. I just intend to take it out and have some fun trying to hang on to the steering wheel long enough to make it to the finish line
I really don't know any chassis places here in The Bay, but the Renteria Brothers have offered to do a little suspension work on my Maverick (when I'm ready)............and they build and have built their ProMod Valiant from scratch which is now in the 5.8's in the 1/4..............and have seen their engine work (their fathers 63 Dodge has an 800HP/single carb'd BB Wedge Mopar...and they did just finish building a similar motor for the owner of Bob's Big Boy, and their chassis work is really top notch....................in my book anyway. If you haven't already visited Chris Alston's place which is over your way..I'd at least stop buy and have a chat...............................just a suggestion. I've never been a fan of spools on the street but then again I've never had a motor that ever made that kind of HP/TQ either.
Ive heard of chris alstons work even before I started building my comet. do you know where he is? address? I definitely want to go with a pro. the rear end shop Im working with now I believe to be pretty knowledgeable. Ive seeen some of the stuff he has built as a one off ( killer off road buggies with like 50 inch tires that look like they could climb over big foot with one tire while the rest stayed on the ground lol) before the economy hit his business HARD. I still want to talk to guys like chris alston since hes built chassis for cars. my guy is more of a 4x4 guy but he does some high performance applications. he did the rear end for a 800hp olds 442. I believe the guy knows his stuff because when he starts telling me what to put in he kinda gets excited and starts rambling off parts and gears and this and that. then when you see him working on something on his bench hes in his own world and makes things look so easy. I watched him one day and it seemed like all he had was a wrench a chisle and a hammer lol then 5 seconds later he was flipping the center section over and it seemed like everything just about fell into his hand. with a glance he already knows if a part is what he wants to use or toss. it was cool to watch him for a few minutes I swear it looked like he could do it in his sleep. his shop is river city differentials conveniently a couple of miles from home TOPS
