Dangit! I have three quarts of POR15 that I decided not to use after I bought it! Who wants a good deal on it?
Yeah, I love POR-15...what kind of deal? Is it still liquid when you shake it? I keep mine in the fridge and it keeps much longer, even after opening it. Plus, I just pound two small hole in the top of the can, and put an rubber washered screw in each hole when done, to seal it off.
Rust Bullet About a year ago I used RB on the exterior of my trunk floor & frame rails. I followed all the directions to the letter. Last month I decided to part the car out & cut it up for scrap. When I examined the floor of the trunk I could see rust bleeding through the silver of the RB. I am still not sold 100% on any of these product. I think the only way to get rid of rust is to completely eliminate it all together. Cut it out, media blast ect. JMO
just1993...that is bad news, man. I have been hoping that POR-15 would be the end of all my rust. I typically try to get down to clean metal before I apply it, maybe I will make sure I always do that. POR-15/RustBullet HAS to be a better preservative than plain primer...
Scooper I don't want to scare anyone into not using this stuff. I don't think it has been on the market long enough to know. But I am starting to believe it is just a band aid for the problem. It wasn't even on my car for a year and I believe it started to fail. But I'm sure someone here will say they had it on there car for many years and no problems. So I guess we all have to be our own test subjects. Isn't it funny though all the company's that are involved in the rust business all claim they are the best and the rust will be gone forever. HA
I just want to clarify "followed all the directions to the letter." You state that you used RB on the exterior of the trunk floor. Did you do the interior? RB requires that you put two coats on both sides of the metal. I just did a trunk repair with RB and fiberglass cloth. I completely wire brushed and sanded both sides of the trunk pan until they were free of the coats of rust. They were smooth except for the pits made by the rust. I put two coats of RB on the inside and then laid a layer of fiberglass over the area and saturated it with RB until it was soaked and looked like it "melted" into the trunk pan. Once this was completely dried and left to cure for a week or so, it took 60 grit sandpaper on a sander to smooth it out. With two coats on the bottom of the pan as well, I'm confident the trunk pan is very solid. I coated the whole pan with two coats, spreading it onto metal parts with no rust. Each layer of RB is supposed to put 3 mil of thickness on the metal. I can tell you right now that my trunk is stronger than when I got the car. I'll let you know in a year or so how it is doing. If successful, I'll write an article with pictures. I took pictures of all the steps.
Great job Hawkco I hope it works for you. And yes I did coat both sides. 3 coats on the outside and 2 on the inside. The outside was media blasted and the inside I used a wire wheel. So I believe I did what I was Supposed to do. The only difference is I live in the Salt Belt and you do not. So good luck.
