No electrical power anywhere

dang I had bought some small nails like that and I don't know where they went. but besides that I don't have an alligator clip.

 

Here is a test light that is perfect for your application. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Thexton-Test-Lite-Wirehawk/19257577
And hey, its at WalMart.

 

not exactly cheap but i believe there's one just like that in the bargain bin at advance. i'd like to know if the last one I posted would work too since it comes with extras.

 

The link you posted uses a LED light. I would think it be best to stick with the old fashion type light bulb

 

The link I posted uses a tube bulb (like the one in the dome light) not a LED. It will work perfectly.

 

I was referring to post #87. I didn't see that you already corrected the LED is wrong.

 

All is good sir, We are on the same sheet here.

 

just co clarify, BOTH of the lights I posted are LED lights that won't work?

 

an led test light takes very little amperage to light up, much like the mulitmeter. also it will be bright with very low available voltage.

if you cant find an incandescent bulb style test light you can easily make one. ive searched on line and it looks like most places are only carrying the led or computer safe lights now.

if you cant find one, go to the auto parts store and go to the electrical component section. find a light socket that has 2 wires coming out of it. get the proper light bulb for that socket, get an alligator clip and some extra wire. put about 1' of wire on each wire coming from the socket. put the alligator clip on one wire and just strip the end of the other wire of about 1/4" of insulation. put bulb in socket. now you have a test light

 

You need to draw current. For that you need a BULB, not a meter or an LED. Dont get a meter and dont get anything with an LED. Get something with a bulb. Either a BULB test light or make one like ^^^^^

 

simple man that's near me may have the right test light.

 

I have no problem trying to help someone that will take some advice from others. This is not the case here. It has come time to opt out of this thread and stop beating my head against a wall. :deadhorse I guess the old saying is true.............................. You cant help someone that does not want help.
Peace out

 

I'm going to over to see him this weekend. I've got exactly the right kind of test light. As some of you have suggested, it's a double filament 1157. If I connect across both filaments It draws about 2 amps! I'm sure we'll get his issue solved! I've had this light made up for years and as was stated it is imperative for circuit testing on older vehicles!

 

do you have 12v on your solenoid, you can use a start button to start the car.This wear a volt meter comes in handy a test only tells you you have voltage but not how much.you can get one cheap at harbor freight and you can also use to check continuity.if you plan trace the electrical problem you will need one of these a test is help to see if voltage is there but when you start playing around will the electrical system you will need this don't waste your money on a test light.can you see the wire that feeds the box that is were you want to test for voltage you said you have 12v a battery.then check for voltage a your solenoid you should have 12v on the power side this is where i would start first that is why i said you need a meter.you will able to use the meter to see if you have a short in the wire by using the ohms setting on the meter it should should have a reading on the meter if its if not it will read ol this means the wire is broken somewhere. to do this with the meter you need to find both ends of the wire.just follow the color code.let me know how you make out. oh you can use the meter to check your fuses to.cant go wrong buying a voltmeter.

 

you're an ass to be honest. I work all day and I have been broke this week so I can't go out and buy a damn test light until today. tell me, what is wrong about another member here bringing in a test light to help? I have been going along with your guys advice about the test lights so there shouldn't be an issue. what, are you mad I have another option before I rig up a test light? that's fine dude. I'll remember you.

hang on, the yellow wire you are referring to is the yellow wire on the back of the fuse box which has a piece that's like twice as big as the rest? I've never tested which ohms before so, if I'm reading it right, which end of the multimeter needles goes where?
also, I get over 12v to the positive terminal on the solenoid, but nothing on the rest whether the ignition is turned on or off.