Scooper's R&C power rack and pinion Mustang II "type" install.

I understand how you feel, I have a great opportunity to relocate for a new job (Denver,Co.) to do it I would have to sell the mav too...

 

Yup, just about sums it up. We are looking at Seattle area.

Might be another year or two, but soon.

 

Moved the power steering up to the top where the A/C compressor used to be. Couldn't get the belt to route correctly without either using the A/C compressor as a "dummy pulley", or buying a "dummy pulley", or moving the P/S pump.

 

Got some brake lines installed but ran out of the compression fittings, I need two more, so I will buy them tomorrow and have all the brakes fixed up. I didn't want to start the engine until I had brakes, just in case the transmission linkage popped into gear or something stupid like that.

Found the correct fan belt to fit the newly relocated power steering pump.

Lubed up all my joints.

Put 5 quarts of oil into the engine, but I have a 7 qt Canton pan, so I need to find another dipstick tube and put it in the stock location so I can see how much more oil to add to make it FULL.

Getting there.

I decided to get the brakes installed, hook up the steering, and then get the ignition set up so the engine starts, then put it on a tow dolly to get it to an exhaust place, to have my exhaust set up. Then drive it home.

 

My Cleveland Canton pan has a pipe fitting welded in the side of the pan for a Canton dip stick - for now, my engine builder just added the correct amount of oil and dead plugged the fitting - the dip stick I bought from Canton screws into that fitting, fill your pan with the correct amount of oil and mark the stick

 

I tried to use a spare chunk of 3/8" steel line to mock up a dipstick tube, but by the time I cleared all the steering components and headers, I had this mangled mess of tubing, and there is no way a dipstick will go into it and make all the curves.

So I plugged all the Canton pan holes up, and decided to go back to the stock oil dipstick tube location, at the front of the engine by the timing cover.

Not sure if I still have that old chrome dipstick tube or if I sold it. I will stab it back in or buy another one if I sold it.

 

I haven't tried to clear the headers yet but I expect it will be a challenge just like everything else has been - my engine builder threaded and plugged my stock location too but I guess I might be able to go back and make that work if I had to

 

Lokar makes a nice dipstick tube. I just put one on a 91 Fox body in the stock location because of his headers, it's flexible and you can modify the bracket to tie to a stud on the header or make your own to mount to the center valve cover bolt.

I hope you're not using compression fittings on actual brake lines...

 

Wouldn't you want to check the oil in the oil pan slump? The small bump at the front of the pan that clears the oil pump will always be full of oil. The timing chain location is for a front slump oil pan. The side location is for rear slump pan

 

First stage of the cool air induction.

I was hoping to buy a kit that had all the tubes and everything, but none had all I needed in one kit. So, I bought the K&N filter only, and will buy the tubes as I can find them.

At least now I can start the car once I get the last brake line hooked up. I want the car driveable so i can tow-dolly it to the exhaust place and drive it home.

Probably without a hood, until I get the rest of the stuff hooked up.

 

Bob, what IS the correct amount of oil?

I would just as well go without a dipstick at all, if I knew how much oil to add at each oilchange. Engine is new, does not burn any, and does not leak.

If 7 qt pan means "add 7 qts" then another half a qt for the filter, then I can just fill it up with 7-1/2 qts and drive it for 6 months before the next oil change.

I was going to add a dipstick just long enough to spin the oil pump, check the oil depth, and pull the dipstick out and plug the hole, and just remember how much oil it took to fill it up.

I might just do this with the header off, and using the canton dipstick in the side. Then pull it, plug it, and put the headers back on and drive it.

 

the canton oil pan a must have...

 

I'm not sure if my pan's capacity is any different than a Windsor and I'm not sure at this time how much oil my own pan holds. I would suggest going to the Canton web site and look up or give them the pan's model number to find the capacity.

 

No, but when I needed a pan, all the other pans were backordered. JEGS, Summit, even the local Ford Racing dealer.

I think they are now back in stock, but they were not when I needed one.

 

...sounds like you are still needing one...
nothing like the correct part for the right app...